South America. Vibrant cultures, awesome scenery and high octane travel. We found it all in 11 days in Peru!
We arrive in Lima, having watched 5 movies, eaten 3 meals and gone for about 4 leg stretching loo breaks. We were tired but excited as we reached arrivals and looked for the man with or name. After about 10 minutes we realised he wasn't there. A quick call the hotel and soon enough someone appeared with our name and we were on our way.
Lima is an enormous and gregarious city. About 40 mins from the airport we arrived at our hotel, Casa Cielo in Miraflores, opposite a chocolate museum (was I dreaming?).
Soon enough I was, wrapped up in the down duvet and silky alpaca wool blanket, until the jet lag caught up with me at about 5am.
I could hear a chirping outside my window coming from the tree opposite our balcony. Once the sun had risen, I peeked out and saw a hummingbird fluttering around the flowers in the tree. I couldn't believe it; I was in Peru!
Cusco
Our friendly driver was a local tour guide and introduced us to the city as we made the short drive to our hotel in Cusco from the airport the following morning.
Eager to explore the city we headed to Placa de Armas, the centre of the historic city centre. The 2 churches dominate the square on the north and easterly side, and a fountain in the centre drew the crowds. The evening sun was illuminating the city in a terracotta glow; this was what we came for!
Placa de Armas, Cusco
Cusco was a pleasure, with friendly people, excellent food and a wonderful vibe. Its old town is small but perfectly formed and there's charm around every corner.
Our hotel, Rumi Punku, was a beautiful mix of a Balinese home stay and a Moroccan riad, with decorated courtyards and balconied room emerging from the walls. Our family sized room came with a spa bath, views of the hillside and 3 beds!
Whilst in Cusco we spent our days acclimatizing, exploring the Sacred Valley and rafting on the Urumbamba river. Before we knew it we were at our briefing for the Inca trail, which would start with a 4am wake up call ahead of 4 days of hiking to the iconic Machu Picchu inca site; the reason we'd come.
After the Inca Trail (and a well earned shower) we returned to Lima for a few days R&R.
With a bit of time in Lima, we were happy to explore the city at a snails pace, and whilst we didn't venture beyond the suburb or Miraflores, I think it had everything we needed.
Our first stop was Parc del Amor, adorned with an enormous statue of 2 lovers embrace, gaudi-esque mosaic terraces and panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. Couples were everywhere; their names carved into the trees, written into the tiles and their padlocks on the fencing. It was a small but beautiful place which offered much needed calmness in the busy city.
The following day we drove through the port town of Callao then to Palomino Islandsby boat for a spot of wildlife spotting. We weren't disappointed, getting to see Pelicans, Blue-footed Boobys, Humboldt Penguins and Sea lions; which we even got a chance to swim with!
Much of the rest of our time was spent eating at the likes of Panchita, and Hencho en Casa, with a drink or two at La Emolienteria.
On our final day we indulged in a chocolate ganache and truffle making class at Choco Museum. In just 2 hours we learnt the art of tempering chocolate, how to create ganache and decorate truffles. Plus, we got to take away 12 chocolates handmade by us each!
Then all of a sudden our bags were packed and it was time to go home. Another trip ticked off the bucket list; another country to scratch off the map. Peru had been as colourful, mysterious and energetic as I hoped it would be. I'm not sure life will ever be the same!
Lima is a big city, and if spending hours in traffic trying to get to museums isn't your thing, getting out of the city could be one way to spend a day.
We did just this when we booked a half day tour of Palomino Island, a short boat ride from the port suburb of Callao. The drive itself was insightful as we passed so many old and dilapidated colonial buildings as we passed through the old port town of Lima.
Shortly after we were en route to the islands; a sort of mini Galapagos in Peru. Take a closer look at the beautiful animals we saw and see our top tips for a pleasant trip below.
Blue footed booby
Humboldt Penguins
Inca Tern
Pelicans
Sea lions
Top tips for your Palomino Island tour
We booked our tour through Viator, and would recommend it to anyone looking for an up-close experience with Sea lions. Here's some other tips from us:
Be prepared: The area where the Sea lions nest is exactly that - their home - and there's a stink you won't be able to forget for a while. This also means the water isn't as crystal clear as you might like. Try not to get any in your mouth when you jump in.
Take a snack and water: We were lucky enough to get some juice and crisps (chips) for the return journey, but just in case this isn't on offer, we'd recommend bringing a small snack to help you deal the bad taste that might be left in your mouth after your swim.
Enjoy it: There's not many opportunities to have real life encounters with animals in their natural habitat, so make the most of it, and enjoy that these animals are happy and curious about you and not stuck in a zoo doing tricks for food.
Exploring the Sacred Valley is top of many people's lists when visiting Cusco, or Peru in general. The valley is home to many ancient sites built by the Inca's, the people who lived in the area immediately before, and slightly after the arrival of the Spanish.
A short Inca history lesson
Incan tribes had been living in the Cusco area since the 12th Century, but the Incan empire existed formally from 1438 - 1533 and stretched along the western ridge of South America, centering in the Peruvian Andes. Patchacuti is thought to be responsible for the rapid expansion of the empire, and commissioned the building of sites such as Machu Picchu.
When Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador (am I in an Indiana Jones movie?), arrived from Panama in 1529 he returned to Spain to received royal approval to conquer the region and be its viceroy, then captured the Inca King Atahualpa and used him to demand gold as ransom from the Inca's, before killing him.
The Inca's were eventually wiped out, their history and traditions with them, in 1572 when Tupac Amaru was killed following 36 years of Neo-Incan survival in the mountains.
With no written language, there's very little in terms of historical proof to help us understand the purpose of some of the ancient sites in the sacred valley. Many have been lost to the mountains, and more are still being excavated as we speak.
Pisac
Your first stop on a tour of the Sacred Valley from Cusco is likely to be Pisac. From Cusco you will climb through the mountains and stunning scenery before reaching the valley. The Inca site had been build into the hillside and in framed by terraces. It's these terraces which you'll see time and time again in the Sacred Valley.
It's a windy road to the city, but once there you're treated to breathtaking views and a chance to explore the pathways. The burial chambers in Pisac are of particular note, and I recommend making the walk to the "city centre" on the far side.
Pisac is also home to a market with lots of souvenirs available, however these are no different to the items you will find in Cusco or any other market in the Sacred Valley. There's lots to tempt you, and it's certainly worth picking up a gift or two, but don't be disheartened if you don't have time - enjoy seeing the sites and shop back in Cusco.
Ollantaytambo
Next on your Sacred Valley tour will be Ollantaytambo. This ancient city is still active and a real treat to explore if you have the time. Unlike other Inca sites, in Ollantaytambo the city was built in the valley - thanks to a pre-existing community when the Incas arrived - so the mountians were dedicated to the building of temples. The steep stairs take you to the temple of the sun and some stunning examples in Inca architecture.
Keep an eye out got the watchtowers on the neighbouring hills. Ollantaytambo was well guarded and it's believed the face of god can be seen in the mountain opposite the temple.
Quechua girls in Ollantaytambo - by @clairemgale on Instagram
In the town below the ancient site, you'll find Inca streets, with their channels of running water, and quint squares in the colonial style brought by the Spanish.
Many people stay in Ollantaytambo before starting the Inca Trail and it's on the train line to Machu Picchu, so if you've an evening to spare, I'd recommend staying the night and soaking up the atmosphere.
Other places of interest
In addition to the cities of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, a typical tour of the Sacred Valley may also include a trip to the salt mines at Maras, the Inca site as Moray, meeting typical Quechua weavers at a women's co-operative, a visit to a llama farm and Chinchero.
We booked our Sacred Valley tour with Viator - check it out! Below: Patchacuti statue at Aguas Calientes, greeting people on their way to Machu Picchu
My favourite part about the new year is planning our exciting adventures for the next 12 months. A fresh dose of annual leave and the blight of Christmas and MOT spending behind me sees me flicking through Traveller magazine for inspiration and scouring the web for deals.
I like taking the time to reflect on the experiences and memories I've collected over the year, which for 2015 includes our first camping stay-cation, the bright lights of New York and the magic of the Marrakesh Medina.
2015 has been an important year for us; back home after 6 months of whirlwind travelling, building a home and working on our careers. But now we've settled our souls and I'm chomping at the bit to plan the coming year, so much so I'm almost done already!
So without further ado, here are some of my travel plans and dreams for 2016...
Barcelona
I'm kicking off the year with a cheeky January weekend away in Barcelona with my husband. I can think of nothing better than the colours of Park Guell and the rich flavours of paella to brush off the January blues. Barcelona was the first place I visited as a young traveller, when I was naive and broke so I'm looking forward to getting to know the city all over again!
Walking Dorset
Over the Spring months I'll be testing out my new Berghaus walking boots on the peaks and cliffs of the Dorset Jurassic Coast and South West Coastal Path. Walking will be a big change of pace from my regular running but I'm looking forward to the opportunity to take in the beautiful scenery and enjoy the gorgeous countryside I'm blessed to live among.
Peru
All the walking will be excellent training for the biggest trip of my year; Peru! In September we will be jetting off to the dizzying heights of Cuzco to begin hiking the Inca Trail with Alpaca Expeditions. The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu have been on my list for as long as I've had one and I'm so excited to finally be on my way to South America. So much so I'm already brushing up on my Spanish!
Summer Holiday
If there's one thing that was missing from 2015 it was horizontal holidays. We both work very and like to play hard too, but every now and then everyone needs to take some time to laze under the sun with a cold drink and endless supply of books. I've been cautioned against booking or looking until after 25th December but I'm dreaming of a Grecian or Croatian escape, white washed buildings and the big blue sea.
Camping
Despite a fairly rough camping experience last summer, I'm determined to make the most of every available sunny Dorset weekend by packing up the car and checking into a campsite. The perfect excuse to combine Peru training with a monthly mini-holiday and all the excitement that goes with it!
Well, that's 17 of my 22 days annual leave allocated and I haven't even booked Christmas yet, so be warned mid-week-weddings!
I know that we are very lucky to be able to travel to much and so well, but believe me with careful planning and budgeting it's possible to make all your travel dreams a reality.
New York, New York! After a long wait since booking our trip to New York in January, last week it was finally time to pack our bags and explore this amazing city. So, grab a pumpkin spice latte and discover the Big Apple with me!
Landing in the Big Apple
Touching down in New York’s JFK airport, we were greeted with the longest ever queue at passport control. It took us about 2 hours from landing to make it to the subway station. Although we weren’t planning on being particularly thrifty on this holiday, we couldn’t resist making the best use of our $30 unlimited 7 day metro card (simply buy from the subway station when you arrive) straight away, and with a straight line from Sutphin to Essex Street on the J/Z train, why pay more. The subway (actually this line was over ground all the way) treated us to an amazing view of the New York skyline as we crossed the Williamsburg Bridge onto Manhattan.
Skyline views from The Ludlow roof
We were welcomed warmly at our hotel, The Ludlow, and our bags were tagged and looked after whilst we enjoyed a drink at the bar and waited for our room to become available.
After freshening up we grabbed a quick slice of pizza for $2 from a place on our street before a happy hour glass of wine at No Fun, one of so many trendy spots in our Lower East Side neighbourhood which we’d explore whilst we were here. Hungry and tired from the jet lag, we ate early at Masala Wala, a highly rated Indian restaurant just a street away. The food was delicious but sadly we ordered far too much. We learned our first lesson about watching out for larger portions!
Midtown and Yankee Stadium
Being up at 5am wasn’t so bad – I got to enjoy the beautiful sunrise from my bed and plan the day ahead. There as so many things to see and do in this city. We’d booked tickets to watch the New York Yankees play the Chicago White Sox at 1pm, so we had the morning to discover the city.
From our hotel we walked along the Bowery to Union Square and past the Flatiron Building. What an amazing sight! The triangular Flatiron Building us a feat of architectural design and is a sight to behold. It also symbolised the start of the Midtown skyscrapers and sights which also include the Empire State Building and Macy’s - we'd arrived!
We quickly moved onto Bryant Park and the New York Library. The park was tranquil amongst the hustle of the streets and has a tiny carousel which was playing an instrumental version of La Vie en Rose. It felt like we briefly slipped into Paris for a short second.
Bryant Park
At Grand Central Terminal we caught a connection to Yankee Stadium. The station didn’t disappoint. The ceiling was painted a gorgeous blue and dotted with constellations around the arches of the windows which would have flooded the room with light before being blocked by neighbouring taller buildings.
Arriving at Yankee Stadium there was the familiar buzz of excited fans and anticipation for the game ahead. Having never seen a baseball game before, but knowing was it was going to be long, we found our seats and settled into a beer and fried chicken whilst the game began.
The game was peppered with songs and soundbites, introducing the players at each bat, during the innings changes and to keep people amused during slower periods. This broke up the silence of make time fly. The best bit was the grounds team doing the YMCA after the 7th innings.
We cheered along with the rest of the supporters, foam finger in hand. It was a great experience which I think many people wouldn’t consider on a regular trip to New York.
Yankee Stadium
Central Park, Top of the Rock and a sunset sail
Our third day began exploring Central Park. This was one of the things I was most excited about seeing; the Mall, fountains and aimless wonderings were all I dreamt of. All that was missing was a little autumn colour, but it was still early in the season. The park is a perfect place for a little respite from the city, especially important for a country girl like me.
Bethesda Terrace, Central Park
Afterwards we took the weight off our feet at Rockefeller Centre and ate amazing steak sandwiches covered in cheese and sauce from Tri Tip Grill. A heart attack in a sandwich, but we earned it. With an hour to spare, we enjoyed the balmy weather with iced coffee in The Channel and indulged in a little people watching before it was our time to take in the views from Top of the Rock.
We chose to see the Manhattan views from Top of the Rock instead of The Empire State because we wanted to make sure Empire was part of the view as it’s such a symbol of New York. Once we arrived at the top, I was so pleased to see there was a glass barrier, not a wire one. This meant amazing views and no chilly wind! The views were amazing and really helped but the size of the city into perspective.
View from Top Of The Rock
Another great way to see the city is by water, and we’d booked onto Manhattan by Sail’s Twilight Cruise from Battery Park. The evening was warm so we were able to chill on the deck and watch the city lights come on as we sailed out to Liberty Island and back over 2 hours with a few beers. The crew even let us help raise the main sail, perfect excuse for a workout!
Me at the helm!
The Manhattan skyline at night is something everyone should see and this being the evening of the lunar eclipse it felt especially special.
Lower Manhattan lights
The Lower East Side
On our fourth day we meandered through the Lower East Side and Lower Manhattan, taking in Little Italy, China Town, and the Brooklyn Bridge. Lower Manhattan is a great place to hangout and discover a side of New York with a little edge, and makes a change from the Gossip Girl and Sex and The City scenes of the Upper East Side. The Lower East Side is older, and has a lot of character, not to mention some of the best neighbourhoods.
Brooklyn Bridge
We also visit the 9/11 memorial. At the memorial, I was astounded as the first memorial pond we approached had the name of a victim of the tragedy which was the same as my brothers. Suddenly the sadness of the tragic events what took place become all the more real.
In the evening we headed back north for a sky bar experience at Spyglass. We were toasting a success of mine with bubbles overlooking a slowly illuminating Empire State building before a steak dinner.
We finished the day in Times Square. Everything you’ve heard is true about Times Square. It’s unreasonably busy, the lights are blinding and you’ll love it! If there’s a centre of the city this is it!
Times Square
Chelsea Market and a hidden Speakeasy
Heading back off the tourist track again, on our 5th day, inspired by the Yankees game, we go to Chelsea Piers batting cages. There’s nothing like having baseballs lobbed at you to get your heart rate up, and I think we did a pretty good job! The piers have great facilities for sports and kids and I certainly recommend it as a way to blow off steam!
After, we joined the new High Line for the walk to Chelsea Market. The High Line has been created using an unused over ground rail line, which is now an oasis of grasses, trees and flowers. It’s becoming a cool hangout spot and is great for enjoying a walk without having to watch out for traffic.
The High Line
Chelsea Market is a foodie heaven, and is packed with international shops, artisan products and some amazing places to eat. For a quick lunch we grabbed a taco filled so much we could barely pick it up. We succumb quickly to the saucy mess and lap up every last morsel before hopping in a cab across town.
Tacos!
Mark is a big beer fan (no surprise) so we’re off to The Ginger Man, with its ‘changes by the day’ amazing selection of beers from around the world. Taking our seats at the bar I get a ‘Beer Flight’ of 4 smaller sampling glasses and Mark indulges his penchant for Bavarian style Beers.
My turn comes later at Amuse, where we make the most of Happy Hour at this lovely wine bar with the world’s best waiter and a rose wine flight with cheese and charcuterie. Mark goes with red wines and we chat UK/US mannerisms and politics over a free glass of prosecco with the barman.
Wine time at Amuse
Our night of drinking continues at one of New York’s speakeasies. I won’t give away its location, but it was in the Lower East side, and entry is only granted to those who know where to look and aren’t too scared to knock. There isn’t a menu, so you get a personal service from the bartenders who ask about the flavours you like then mix you a drink. They won’t be cheap, but the experience it worth it!
Liberty Island and the last bite of the Big Apple
On our last day the weather changes from the dizzying heat of the past few days to the cool autumnal chill we were expecting. Both refreshing and perfectly welcome!
After checking out we head down town to Battery Park to board a Statue Cruise to Liberty and Ellis Island. We don’t get off at Liberty Island we’ve enjoyed the view from the boat and time is of the essence today. At Ellis Island we do get off though to see the Immigration Museum. I’m surprised to learn that until fairly recently the gateway to America was left for ruin after closing in 1959.
The Statue of Liberty
It’s the perfect ending to our trip though to discover the process so many people went through before being welcomed to the United States. The US is proud of the immigrants and their cultures which have found a home and shaped modern America, which seems particularly poignant at the moment with the migrant crisis in Syria.
Back in Manhattan, we spend our remaining hours shopping in Soho and enjoying a Pumpkin Spice Latte from Starbucks before slipping out again the same way we came in.
We had such a fantastic time in New York and this barely touched on some of the experiences we had and everything we couldn’t do! I’ll be writing more about New York in the coming weeks so watch out for:
The Ludlow Hotel Review - coming soon
Central Park - coming soon
The Lower East Side and Lower Manhattan - coming soon
The Greek Islands had always seemed like (one of so many) out of reach travel destinations for me, full of secluded beaches, and whitewashed villages I would never be able to afford to visit.
Thanks to the recession and lowcostholidays.com though in June 2011 I booked my ticket to the Ionian island of Zante.
Panoramic Views
We were booked on our first ever package holiday which promised us an easy journey and no frills unless we wanted them.
I must admit, after a few holidays involving early starts and sleeping in Costa Coffee, I was pleased to let Olympus do their thing and guide me to be destination. I was too engrossed in Captain Corelli's Mandolin about neighbouring island Kefalonia to notice most of the journey there anyway.
View of Kefalonia from Zante
Shipwreck Beach
Zante is famous for having one of the worlds most photographed beached. Navagio Beach is home to the wreck of a smuggling vessel which ran aground in the 1980 after getting into problems.
Whilst on the island we booked onto a boat tour which circles the island starting the Zante town. We passed the beach but unfortunately the conditions weren't suitable for us to land, so instead we swam and jumped into the sea from a calmer spot, poking into caves and coves along the way.
Shipwreck Beach - Zante
Towards the end of the sailing we passed Marathonisi Island, also called Turtle Island on account of its shape and the fact it's a nesting site for loggerhead turtles.
The engines slowed as we passed and everyone craned their heads to catch a glimpse of a turtle. After about 15 minutes hope seemed lost until I head Mark start shouting and pointing. He'd spotted a turtle, and I caught a glimpse before it disappeared into our wake. I was so happy and felt so special to be one of a select view to have seen a turtle that day. Below is a short video of from the boat trip showing the beautiful blue waters and white cliffs.
Tsilivi
Our accommodation was self catering apartments, so we could explore the local restaurants and dive into the amazing Greek food. Tsilivi was a quiet village which was quickly developing and each restaurant had an eager Maitre d' on the door giving out business cards quicker than a phone box on Saturday nights. I didn't care though, I was in Greece, and I was hungry!
Tiny chapel in Tsilivi
We did find some amazing food, including kelftiko, rabbit Zakynthos and a particularly memorable tiramisu. I was amazed and it certainly sparked a love of Greek food in my heart.
When we weren't relaxing pool side or reading, we hiring jet skis or quad bikes to explore the island. We discovered a few treasures including an empty beach bar called Portofino which, though beautiful, would eventually give Mark food poisoning, and a panoramic terrace with views over Zante town.
Portofino Beach Cafe - Zante
Although some may see Zante as a party island, we managed to completely avoid it and get a generous holiday is a quiet area which was exactly what we wanted.
I loved our time in Zante, enjoying the quieter side of a notorious party island which held a few surprises just for us because we were willing to look.
Marmaris in Turkey will always hold a special place in my heart. It was where I spent my first long holiday alone without my parents. Granted I was 20 years old back in 2009, but my holidays had always been family affairs, and the occasional day in Cherbourg and a long weekend in Barcelona can't really count.
July 2009
Marmaris was a world away from the relative security of fly and flop holidays to Spain in my childhood years, made clear by the long journey which saw us arriving at Ceylan Apartments with the breaking dawn and before the first of the days call to prayer.
Marmaris Old Town
Nestled beneath the hills above it, Marmaris is similar to many resorts, with a wide sweeping bay dotted with restaurants and finished off with a marina. We were here for some sun, and it was guaranteed with the mercury hovering at about 35c most days. Mostly we enjoyed relaxing on the beach whilst kind staff brought us chilled beers and cocktails.
In the evenings, we ran a gauntlet of Maitre d' all making various offers and telling us about the freshness and quality of the food in their restaurant. As our first experience like this we were unprepared and likely made a few bad food choices. I do remember each restaurant tended to dish out a kind of dried bread with what I can only describe as curry butter; it was simple and tasty and I wish I knew more about it. Our hearts were won by the man who simply said "I say nothing". Get me a table!
Parasailing
The beach was popular for watersports due to the size of the bay and space available on the public beach. As soon as we spotted the parasailing boat we knew where the day would take us, and a few hours later we were soaring above Marmaris with spectacular views of the bay. The following day we'd have some fun on the ringo being dragged behind a speedboat whilst we clung on for life!
Of course no trip to Turkey would be complete without exploring the old town and bazaar, and after a pick about the narrow market, we were lured up to a bar by weather worn signposts which boasted panoramic views over the marina. We weren't disappointed, and loved finding a little peace and quiet - we were the only ones there after all!
Seeking out hidden treasures
Marmaris also had everything else a couple of twentysomethings might want from a holiday, some we explored, some we didn't. Boat trips and belly dancers made for a great day and night out, but we stayed away from the nightclubs favouring poolside fun with the reps and a laugh at the karaoke singing Queen's Bohemian Rhapsody. I figured I had nothing else to loose as I'd already done a drunk Macarena after a fishbowl. Oh and, fishbowls.
Looking back at this first trip now, I can see where so many of our holiday trends have come from. Trends like looking out the hidden gems, boats and watersports, and good times. We were pretty broke, packing our own cereal into our hold luggage, and gladly accepting the free bread from the shop opposite our apartment to make sandwiches with to save money. But we has a great time exploring a new country just the two of us, and that's become the habit of a lifetime.
I'm hustled out of the car and immediately my senses are alive at the market trade taking place on the floor or the small square. Distracted by some little aubergines I almost crash into a passing cyclist. Better gather yourself Claire! We wind through tiny streets and through an equally tiny door and suddenly we are surrounded by plants, a pool and the sounds of birds. Its like something from a fairytale walking into a Riad; the hustle of the street could be 10 miles away! Welcome to Marrakesh!
We decided to stay at Riad Edward before Millie and before we knew about the British owner, whose patriotism extends to a rather large painting of the queen in reception. We were welcomed with traditional Moroccan Mint Tea (something I've been waiting to try for a long time) with freshly squeezed orange juice and delicate biscuits. And not a minute too soon after a 2am alarm and a 6:25 flight from Gatwick.
Welcome tea, juice and cakes at Riad Edward
"You're room is nice and tucked away" we are told as we wind up the narrow staircase to the roof. And so it is; our room is secluded with a private outdoor seating area and no neighbours.
It's comfortably furnished with enough pillows for a Berber camp and a bath bathed in the light of the coloured glass of the window. "We got it Booking right!" we tell ourselves as we freshen up ready to explore the city!
Private seating area
The Medina
Marrakesh Medina or old city is made up of thousands of tiny winding streets that are sure to have even the most experienced navigators nervously scratching their head. Lucky for us, our Booking.com reservation got us a free travel guide with offline map from their app. This meant we could spend a little less time arguing and drawing attention to ourselves as lost tourists and more time to see the city knowing we could never really get too lost. There are also lots of signs to Jemaa El Fna square, and plenty of "helpful locals" ready to walk you almost anywhere for a few euros.
Once you take your focus off the map, the city is beautiful and the narrow streets lead to stunning mosques. Take it all in at a terrace in Jemaa El Fna over a cool drink or from the street with a 30p Orange juice. From the square you can see snake charmers, get henna or have your picture taken with a poor nappied monkey, none of which I'd recommend. Instead order a drink at the quiet Aqua bar and watch as the square stands still during prayer and the muezzin call sounds out in echoing waves, minaret by minaret across the city.
Taking in the atmosphere at Cafe Aqua, in Jemaa El Fna
After a long days travelling and walking (twice as far with all the wrong turns) we were certainly in need of a good meal. I'd booked us a table on the roof terrace at Le Foundouk, and after getting very lost on the way we arrived late and hungry.
"Je suis tre desole" (a phase I'd use much more than normal on this trip) I said as we arrived. We were shown upstairs and passed the menu and a traditional splash of rose water for our hands. The attentive service of the staff made us feel very special and we enjoyed our Briwatts and Tagine over a bottle of Moroccan red wine (not at all bad) and the sound of the starlings.
The following day we had booked a trip into the Atlas Mountains to Kasbah Du Toubkal. Again, we booked this before we spotted Daniel Craig and Mark Strong had enjoyed a bromantic getaway there some months before.
Kasbah Du Toubkal
After shockingly oversleeping I was pleased I booked the private tour as this gave us the time we needed to eat some breakfast before the day began. Our driver Ysef was patient and once on our way informative about the mountains and what we could expect. We drove out of the city toward the snow capped hills, spotting fruit trees, perilous bridges and properties owned by Richard Branson.
At the village in Ansi we stopped for a quick tour of the market. No hidden agenda to make a sale from the tourists, just a slice of real Moroccan life, goat heads and all. At Imlil we joined the Kasbah staff for a short walk up the hillside to the serene Kasbah compound which is blessed with panoramic views of the valley, waterfalls and Mount Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa. As we bathed in the view we were served a lunch of Moroccan salad, lamb and fig Tagine, cous cous with chicken and vegetables and fresh watermelon. The Tagine was out of this world! Fall off the bone lamb with onions, figs and tomato. Satisfied and with no other plan but to enjoy the view, we camped out Berber style on the terrace to take in the view and calm.
The view from Kasbah Du Toubkal
By the end of such a long day, we wanted to stay close to the Riad for dinner. We'd noticed I Limoni as we came home the previous evening and after seeing it's reviews on TripAdvisor decided to give it ago. We only wanted a small meal after all the Tagine at the Kasbah; or so we thought.
Seated among the lemon trees and listening to a mix of chill out, a small meal turned into 3 courses. I Limoni offers a mixture of Moroccan and Italian dishes, so we were spoiled for choice! We were greeted by a run down of the specials and served fried vegetables and bread which we enjoyed with lashings of olive oil and balamic vinegar. We shouldn't have ordered starters, but it was too late, and now I was faced with a huge pastilla. Pastilla is a sweet or savoury dish, wrapped in filo pastry. Mine was chicken, with a delicate sweetness to it, and dusted with cinnamon. Sounds weird but tastes delicious. I was only sorry I couldn't eat it all! I followed this with lemon and Rosemary pasta which was the simple but tasty dish I needed. Mark had gnocchi Gorgonzola which he enjoyed. After nearly the whole bottle of Cuvee President, the dessert menu tempted us back with tiramisu and we were glad we decided to share. It was massive! We were invited to finish our drinks on the terrace and left feeling very full but very happy we'd chosen to come.
The following night be returned to I Limoni for lamb Tagine and chocolate and pear tart! Equally delicious and we even got a lemoncello to finish it off with!
Sightseeing in Marrakesh
We'd reserved our last day in Marrakesh for some much needed sunbathing and book reading on the roof, so the Sunday was all about sights!
Marrakesh is a city you can explore in a weekend, but when pushed for time we think a day is just about enough to tick the important boxes depending on how much you really want to see. I find being flexible with what you can and can't leave without seeing is important to exploring any new place and makes the whole experience more enjoyable.
I'd wanted to ride a camel since I came home from Egypt without having had so much as an opportunity to ride one, so with a little French interpretation, I booked us a camel each around the Palmerie. We were dressed up in the semi traditional looking garb and walked about for an hour quite happily with our guide/photographer happily chatting and snapping away.
Camel riding in the Palmerie
Back in the medina, we hotfooted it over to the tanneries. This corner of the city is where the leather is prepared and, although not particularly enamoured with the idea of a tour, we did pop out heard around the corner for a quick peek.
We pit stop for chicken sandwiches (amazing) and an orange juice on our way to the souks at Terasse La Medersa. Around the corner the souks entrance beckons us in. As we are on a tight schedule, we follow the main avenue of the mess of alleys and corners from one end to the other, glancing at trinkets, tea pots and slippers.
Marrakesh souks
The souks are a maze of colours and explorers bargaining for a keepsake or two. I'm not quite sure if there's anything I want to part with my money for, but as we negotiate over a leather belt for Mark, a backpack which I know will age well catches my eye. Sadly it's too much than I'm willing to spend, but half the price later I'm a happy lady with a leather backpack for the equivalent of £14.60! We pick up a few novelties for our friends before emerging the other end of the souk happy and about ready for another orange juice.
Our next stop is the Saadian Tombs. Inside this tiny sight we find beautiful mosaics and a lush garden and after a peaceful walk around its time to catch the caleche to our final stop of the day, the Majorelle Gardens.
Saadian Tombs
Saved by French fashionista Yves Saint Lauren, Majorelle Gardens seems to be some kind of fashion Mecca, and it is here outside of the medina walls where we find flowing dresses among the cacti! The gardens are lovely and the blue as deep and walk as you've come to expect, but for the price this was certainly more new than old Marrakesh!
There were other sights I would have liked to see, for example the Mamounia, but I think after my slight disappointment with the Majorelle, I'd be happier with a more time in my magical Riad anyway!
On our final day we bathe under the sun and indulge is breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Riad, all topped off with a massage that boarders on being a little naughty!
Sunset views of Koutombia Mosque from Riad Edward
It's been a strange sort of a trip in some ways, as I forget myself, am constantly late and feel like I'm making mistakes I really should have sorted by now. There are parts of the city that remind me of Vietnam and Cambodia, by being completely open to tourists but still maintain a distance from them. Eventually as with every trip though, it's time to go and as we jet off I feel relaxed and ready for my next adventure!
It was about this time last year that I was telling you about my preparations to leave the UK to work in Vietnam.
It was an exciting time of moving, planning and saying goodbye, for I genuinely had no idea when I would return.
In the 5 months I've been home I've found a job, a home and driven my way through 2 cars. It's not been a time for travel, but for rebuilding a life here in England now that (at the very least) we are confident it's the place for us.
As we finished up our Christmas festivities though, an old familiar yearning stirred within me. Could it be that after a busy period of family visits and nights in the pub with friends I was feeling some wanderlust?
It was the levanter*. I was yearning to travel. Pack up, ditch the WiFi and charge the camera.
So, after a few days of hunting for bargains, scouring for the right flight dates and accounting for local religious festivals (ah, to be travelling again) Mark and I had booked a trip to Marrakech.
Marrakech has been on my wanderlist for as long as I've had one. Souks, deserts camels and plenty of tea tick all my boxes.
Despite telling myself I'd be content to stay on home soil for 12 months following 6 on the road, I must admit I was a little surprised at how animated I got at the idea of a break abroad; but I'm glad my sense of adventure is still there.
So, here's to a wonderful 2015, sure to be filled with a few trips away and lots of UK based adventures along the way! If you have any tips for travelling in Marrakech, please leave them in the comments section below.
Happy travelling x
*The levanter is the wind from Africa to southern Spain, which called Santiago back to his true love in Paulo Coelho's The Alchemist.
It's been a little over a month since I touched down in England after 5 months in South East Asia and Italy.
Since then I've started a new job, Mark bought a car and we found a place to live.
We've also been out and about making the most of the surprisingly lovely British weather and seeing some of the best Dorset has to offer.
Famous for the Jurassic Coast, Cerne Abbas Giant and a cheeky sounding biscuit, Dorset is and always has been my home county. Over 3.2 million Brits visit Dorset each year and its easy to see why with our rolling countryside, award winning beaches and chocolate box villages.
Our first trip was to an old favourite, Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove.
Durdle Door is a natural limestone arch on the Jurassic Coast, about a 30 minute drive from Poole. The drive itself is exciting as you pass through MoD training land and are warned to be aware of "sudden gunfire" and "tanks crossing".
To reach the door, you drive through the Durdle Door Holiday park, park your car and head down the hill. There's a handy kiosk for a cup of Dorset Tea and an ice cream at both ends of the path - which are much needed after a steep climb.
Reaching the door is a magnificent moment. The beach below is framed perfectly by the door giving everyone a stunning view. The cliffs spread out into the distance from both directions and the sea drifts endlessly to Portland and beyond. It's an unsteady path to the beach itself, but well worth it to take a plunge in the sea and swim through the door.
Following the south west coastal path back up the hill, we then carried on to Lulworth Cove. The views on the walk are breathtaking; sprawling fields of green to the left and endless blue sea to the right.
After fish and chips (of course) we ambled down to the shore where kids crabbed and dogs frolicked in the sea. The village was full of tasty looking bistros, and quirky British charm. There was even a red phone box. It was the perfect way to re-aquatint ourselves with Dorset life.
