With winter daylight at a premium, I love making the most of the Christmas break with a chance to visit the beach for a seaside stroll. The fresh air and churning sea is the best refreshment I know, and you never know what you might find washed up.
The sea was particularly choppy today and the winds had blown lots of seaweed onto the beach.
Possibly Egg Wrack seaweed - dark green with little parcels
Thongweed - long and stringy seaweed
With the seaweed came lots of tiny jellyfish and velella velella which I've never seen before. These cute blue creatures are cousins of the jelly fish family and travel where the wind takes then using their little fins. Cute!
It’s the place you’ve seen a thousand times at the cinema
and on TV, but nothing is quiet like crossing from the hectic mayhem of the
city into the green shelter of Central Park.
Angel of the Waters fountain
I feel like I already know the rocky mounds and leafy paths
from cinemas most iconic scenes, like Kramer vs. Kramer, Angels in America and
Home Alone. The real things conjures as many surprises and romantic interludes
as the movies; the first colours of autumn are starting to emerge and in the
distance a jazzy band are playing for dollars.
We started our explorations from the 6th Avenue
entrance, bee-lining towards The Mall. Lots of people hire bikes to make the
most of the extensive park, but as they’re restricted to the more main roads,
we chose to walk so we could go where we pleased.
Central Park was the only place in New York where I could
hear birdsong and the gentle rustle of the leaves as they flitted for berries.
Gorgeous birds with fantastic blue plumage were such a treat and squirrels scurried
in the trees. Venture far enough north and you’ll even find turtles beside the
Great Lawn!
The Mall and Literary Walk
The Mall, my favourite spot, glows green in the sunlight,
and the leaves form a canopy over the pathway which is flanked by benches. I
could sit here and watch the world go by all day, but at the end it is the
Bethesda Terrace beckoning me along. The Bethesda Terrace feels like the centre
point of the park watched over by the angel in the fountain.
Bethesda Terrace
For a more woodland vibe, The Ramble and its intertwining network
of paths are a stark contrast to the straight and wide boulevards of The Mall.
This is where nature flourishes and the city is only found through breaks in the
trees or the hum of the distant traffic. Eventually it will lead you to Bow
Bridge and you feel like you’re in New York again.
The Lake
For everything you need to plan a day/afternoon/hour in Central Park, visit the Conservancy website or stop by
the 6th Avenue kiosk for a free map and advice.
I can see the ‘Hotel’ sign up the street and I know we are
getting close. I’ve walked these streets on Google Maps more times than I care
to admit in the weeks before our trip to New York. We booked our hotel through
British Airways and were reassured by its Mr & Mrs Smith status, but
honestly, we didn’t have a clue about what to expect!
I’m pleased to see when we arrive that The Ludlow Hotel is
just as quirky and trendy as the pictures suggested. Dark wood gives a close
and cosy vibe in the lobby, and the fire is roaring even though it’s forecast
to be more than 20degrees this week.
The Ludlow Hotel lounge
Our room is compact but very tastefully decorated. The large
and comfortable bed dominates the room and the feather pillows catch our weary
heads like a cloud. We’re treated to a bottle of red which waits patiently for
us beside the chairs and keeps our mind off the minibar, which features
(amid the usual) pleasure items for couples, next to a jar of gummy bears.
Comfy bed and soft pillows make for a good night sleep
The bathroom is as big as some kitchens I’ve known, and is
complete with bath, rain shower, robes and delicious smelling shampoo,
conditioner, body wash and lotion which were probably better than the ones I’d
packed from home.
Bathrooms dreams are made here!
We have uninterrupted views of the Lower East Side from our
13th floor room, and a statue waves us good morning and goodnight
from the rooftop across the street. Sunrise is a treat which you can rarely
enjoy from your bed, so we lap it up each morning.
Good morning New York!
Breakfast is served each morning in the Dirty French
restaurant. Included are fresh fruit, parfait or pastries. Guests can pick one
to enjoy with tea or coffee and juice and water. The parfait is large enough
alone to feed 2, and the pastries option is actually a basket of 3 enormous
freshly baked pasties. You won’t leave hungry that’s for sure. We mixed things
up one morning with eggs Benedict which were great, but so filling we didn’t need
lunch!
Pastries and Parfait (Granola and Yogurt) for breakfast
The Ludlow wins the award for best WiFi I’ve ever had,
anywhere! It was quicker than at my house and perfect for planning the day over
breakfast or sharing holiday snaps online from your room.
And take pictures you will! The Ludlow's hidden treasure is its rooftop terrace with amazing views over the Lower Manhattan skyline. For hotel guests only, it's the perfect place to bring that bottle of wine at watch the city light come on after sunset!
Sunset views from the rooftop of The Ludlow Hotel
The Lower East Side is an amazing part of New York to
explore, and is so commonly ignored in favour of the towering buildings and
sights of Midtown and the Upper East Side. The Ludlow is perfectly placed for
those of you looking for an authentic, youthful and rich New York experience,
as it has so many amazing places to eat, drink and shop on its doorstep and
great connections to the rest of Manhattan and Brooklyn.
New York, New York! After a long wait since booking our trip to New York in January, last week it was finally time to pack our bags and explore this amazing city. So, grab a pumpkin spice latte and discover the Big Apple with me!
Landing in the Big Apple
Touching down in New York’s JFK airport, we were greeted with the longest ever queue at passport control. It took us about 2 hours from landing to make it to the subway station. Although we weren’t planning on being particularly thrifty on this holiday, we couldn’t resist making the best use of our $30 unlimited 7 day metro card (simply buy from the subway station when you arrive) straight away, and with a straight line from Sutphin to Essex Street on the J/Z train, why pay more. The subway (actually this line was over ground all the way) treated us to an amazing view of the New York skyline as we crossed the Williamsburg Bridge onto Manhattan.
Skyline views from The Ludlow roof
We were welcomed warmly at our hotel, The Ludlow, and our bags were tagged and looked after whilst we enjoyed a drink at the bar and waited for our room to become available.
After freshening up we grabbed a quick slice of pizza for $2 from a place on our street before a happy hour glass of wine at No Fun, one of so many trendy spots in our Lower East Side neighbourhood which we’d explore whilst we were here. Hungry and tired from the jet lag, we ate early at Masala Wala, a highly rated Indian restaurant just a street away. The food was delicious but sadly we ordered far too much. We learned our first lesson about watching out for larger portions!
Midtown and Yankee Stadium
Being up at 5am wasn’t so bad – I got to enjoy the beautiful sunrise from my bed and plan the day ahead. There as so many things to see and do in this city. We’d booked tickets to watch the New York Yankees play the Chicago White Sox at 1pm, so we had the morning to discover the city.
From our hotel we walked along the Bowery to Union Square and past the Flatiron Building. What an amazing sight! The triangular Flatiron Building us a feat of architectural design and is a sight to behold. It also symbolised the start of the Midtown skyscrapers and sights which also include the Empire State Building and Macy’s - we'd arrived!
We quickly moved onto Bryant Park and the New York Library. The park was tranquil amongst the hustle of the streets and has a tiny carousel which was playing an instrumental version of La Vie en Rose. It felt like we briefly slipped into Paris for a short second.
Bryant Park
At Grand Central Terminal we caught a connection to Yankee Stadium. The station didn’t disappoint. The ceiling was painted a gorgeous blue and dotted with constellations around the arches of the windows which would have flooded the room with light before being blocked by neighbouring taller buildings.
Arriving at Yankee Stadium there was the familiar buzz of excited fans and anticipation for the game ahead. Having never seen a baseball game before, but knowing was it was going to be long, we found our seats and settled into a beer and fried chicken whilst the game began.
The game was peppered with songs and soundbites, introducing the players at each bat, during the innings changes and to keep people amused during slower periods. This broke up the silence of make time fly. The best bit was the grounds team doing the YMCA after the 7th innings.
We cheered along with the rest of the supporters, foam finger in hand. It was a great experience which I think many people wouldn’t consider on a regular trip to New York.
Yankee Stadium
Central Park, Top of the Rock and a sunset sail
Our third day began exploring Central Park. This was one of the things I was most excited about seeing; the Mall, fountains and aimless wonderings were all I dreamt of. All that was missing was a little autumn colour, but it was still early in the season. The park is a perfect place for a little respite from the city, especially important for a country girl like me.
Bethesda Terrace, Central Park
Afterwards we took the weight off our feet at Rockefeller Centre and ate amazing steak sandwiches covered in cheese and sauce from Tri Tip Grill. A heart attack in a sandwich, but we earned it. With an hour to spare, we enjoyed the balmy weather with iced coffee in The Channel and indulged in a little people watching before it was our time to take in the views from Top of the Rock.
We chose to see the Manhattan views from Top of the Rock instead of The Empire State because we wanted to make sure Empire was part of the view as it’s such a symbol of New York. Once we arrived at the top, I was so pleased to see there was a glass barrier, not a wire one. This meant amazing views and no chilly wind! The views were amazing and really helped but the size of the city into perspective.
View from Top Of The Rock
Another great way to see the city is by water, and we’d booked onto Manhattan by Sail’s Twilight Cruise from Battery Park. The evening was warm so we were able to chill on the deck and watch the city lights come on as we sailed out to Liberty Island and back over 2 hours with a few beers. The crew even let us help raise the main sail, perfect excuse for a workout!
Me at the helm!
The Manhattan skyline at night is something everyone should see and this being the evening of the lunar eclipse it felt especially special.
Lower Manhattan lights
The Lower East Side
On our fourth day we meandered through the Lower East Side and Lower Manhattan, taking in Little Italy, China Town, and the Brooklyn Bridge. Lower Manhattan is a great place to hangout and discover a side of New York with a little edge, and makes a change from the Gossip Girl and Sex and The City scenes of the Upper East Side. The Lower East Side is older, and has a lot of character, not to mention some of the best neighbourhoods.
Brooklyn Bridge
We also visit the 9/11 memorial. At the memorial, I was astounded as the first memorial pond we approached had the name of a victim of the tragedy which was the same as my brothers. Suddenly the sadness of the tragic events what took place become all the more real.
In the evening we headed back north for a sky bar experience at Spyglass. We were toasting a success of mine with bubbles overlooking a slowly illuminating Empire State building before a steak dinner.
We finished the day in Times Square. Everything you’ve heard is true about Times Square. It’s unreasonably busy, the lights are blinding and you’ll love it! If there’s a centre of the city this is it!
Times Square
Chelsea Market and a hidden Speakeasy
Heading back off the tourist track again, on our 5th day, inspired by the Yankees game, we go to Chelsea Piers batting cages. There’s nothing like having baseballs lobbed at you to get your heart rate up, and I think we did a pretty good job! The piers have great facilities for sports and kids and I certainly recommend it as a way to blow off steam!
After, we joined the new High Line for the walk to Chelsea Market. The High Line has been created using an unused over ground rail line, which is now an oasis of grasses, trees and flowers. It’s becoming a cool hangout spot and is great for enjoying a walk without having to watch out for traffic.
The High Line
Chelsea Market is a foodie heaven, and is packed with international shops, artisan products and some amazing places to eat. For a quick lunch we grabbed a taco filled so much we could barely pick it up. We succumb quickly to the saucy mess and lap up every last morsel before hopping in a cab across town.
Tacos!
Mark is a big beer fan (no surprise) so we’re off to The Ginger Man, with its ‘changes by the day’ amazing selection of beers from around the world. Taking our seats at the bar I get a ‘Beer Flight’ of 4 smaller sampling glasses and Mark indulges his penchant for Bavarian style Beers.
My turn comes later at Amuse, where we make the most of Happy Hour at this lovely wine bar with the world’s best waiter and a rose wine flight with cheese and charcuterie. Mark goes with red wines and we chat UK/US mannerisms and politics over a free glass of prosecco with the barman.
Wine time at Amuse
Our night of drinking continues at one of New York’s speakeasies. I won’t give away its location, but it was in the Lower East side, and entry is only granted to those who know where to look and aren’t too scared to knock. There isn’t a menu, so you get a personal service from the bartenders who ask about the flavours you like then mix you a drink. They won’t be cheap, but the experience it worth it!
Liberty Island and the last bite of the Big Apple
On our last day the weather changes from the dizzying heat of the past few days to the cool autumnal chill we were expecting. Both refreshing and perfectly welcome!
After checking out we head down town to Battery Park to board a Statue Cruise to Liberty and Ellis Island. We don’t get off at Liberty Island we’ve enjoyed the view from the boat and time is of the essence today. At Ellis Island we do get off though to see the Immigration Museum. I’m surprised to learn that until fairly recently the gateway to America was left for ruin after closing in 1959.
The Statue of Liberty
It’s the perfect ending to our trip though to discover the process so many people went through before being welcomed to the United States. The US is proud of the immigrants and their cultures which have found a home and shaped modern America, which seems particularly poignant at the moment with the migrant crisis in Syria.
Back in Manhattan, we spend our remaining hours shopping in Soho and enjoying a Pumpkin Spice Latte from Starbucks before slipping out again the same way we came in.
We had such a fantastic time in New York and this barely touched on some of the experiences we had and everything we couldn’t do! I’ll be writing more about New York in the coming weeks so watch out for:
The Ludlow Hotel Review - coming soon
Central Park - coming soon
The Lower East Side and Lower Manhattan - coming soon
As soon as I heard about the Audrey Hepburn exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery I know it would be the perfect place for a day out with the girls. So, last weekend in aid of my oldest friends birthday the girls gathered in London for a lesson in style.
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday
Audrey Hepburn is the free spirited princess in one of my favourite films, Roman Holiday. In the film she abandons her princessly duties to explore Rome with a little help from a dashing Gregory Peck. Who could forget the shrieks when Peck pranks a naive Hepburn at the mouth of truth. Images of Vacanze Romane still fill the souvenir stalls of Rome's streets to this day.
The exhibition revealed the lesser known history of Audrey's early life and the charitable causes she pioneered at the end, filled in between with the story of an icon whose effortlessly chic style has inspired millions.
As we explored the exhibition we were both inspired to shop and amazed at her timeless beauty, each of us picking a favourite moment or two which we'd like to replicate in our own lives. A daring haircut, a statement outfit or a mysterious pose.
We left feeling we'd had s short lesson in style from one of Europe's best exports.
The Isle of Purbeck is not what it may seem. In fact it isn't even an island, but a peninsula creeping out the south of Dorset between Poole and Weymouth.
Just 15 or so miles from the hustle and bustle of Bournemouth, Purbeck is a world away in atmosphere. Busy beaches are replaced with quiet coves and the packed towns give way to sleepy villages.
This August Purbeck opened it's doors to the somewhat unexpected occasions of reggae parties and outdoor movie nights. I went along to see what surprises this corner of Dorset had in store.
Reggae Night In Kingston, Dorset
As August rolled into Dorset, The Scott Arms in Kingston announced their reggae and jerk party night. Kingston, Dorset would for one day transform to embody the colour and flavour of its Jamaican counterpart with rum punch, jerk chicken and reggae on the decks.
The village is famous because of The Scott Arms pub and it's stunning views overlooking the Purbeck hills and Corfe Castle. The village itself is dotted with nothing more than quaint cottages selling fresh honey and eggs and an imposing church; the epitome of British countryside living.
As we arrived the cars were mounted on any available piece of narrow road, and the music was humming. The usually more than adequate beer garden was loaded with a heady mix of families, local and an eclectic crowd drawn in for the party. Locals chatted among themselves in that wonderful way village communities do that townies don't get and the laid back vibe took hold.
Jerk was all that was on the menu, so we snaffled a seat next to a new family and ate our jerk with rice and peas, plantain and homemade slaw, washing it down with a glass of punch as the sun set. And it went down very nicely. The flavours were balanced and tasty, and whilst I would have liked a little more spice, I think it was a perfect introduction to Jerk for a Dorset village.
The party rolled into the night long after we'd left, no doubt the event of the year for this tiny nook.
Luna Cinema at Lulworth Castle
Our next exciting discovery on the Isle of Purbeck was that the Luna Cinema was bringing an outdoor movie night to the iconic Lulworth Castle in late August.
Lulworth Castle actually isn't a castle at all, and was built as a hunting lodge in the early 1600's, before being seized by the Roundheads during the English Civil War. The French royal family used it as a residence in exile in the 1800's and the whole building was gutted by a fire in the 1920's. After much restoration with the help of English Heritage, the Weld family who have owned the castle since the 1640's, opened the gates in 1998 and the castle became a top event site in Dorset, hosting weddings, Camp Bestival and now Luna Cinema.
Approaching the castle through the gates it looked like something from a movie, with the sunset casting a vanilla speckled sky over the turrets. We and other film fans milled about exploring the castle and grabbing a burger before huddling up in our camping chairs and blankets and accepting more than our fair share of free Starbucks and cider samples.
The movie tonight was a Sunday afternoon favourite in my family; Back To The Future! We don't get many outdoor cinema clubs in Dorset and although I've made my pilgrimages to the likes of Summer Screen at Somerset House, there's nothing like events in your own back yard.
As we settled into the movie, I realised this was probably the first time in my life I've sat silently, undisturbed by my phone to watch this movie. There were so many smaller details which I'd become blind to in the years of lazy Sunday afternoon watching. I was discovering it all over again, almost like watching it for the first time.
Despite the autumnal chill that crept in as the moon rose, we giggled and snuggled until it was time to go home, having rediscovered a classic in a show-stopping setting.
There's loads more to discover in Purbeck too, including the stunning natural sights of Durdle Door and the Jurassic Coast, and the villages of Wareham and Worth Matravers. Have you visited any? Share your favourite Purbeck spots with me.
This weekend I made the most of a sunny moment in the British summer to go stand up paddle boarding (SUP). There's a new surf hire place on Branksome beach called Shaka Surf which I've passed by a few times just waiting for the right conditions to get out on the water.
Saturday morning's forecast was good all week, and when I woke up the sun was already up and shining through a cloudless Dorset sky. We zipped down to the beach just a mile away and within minutes I was out on the water as Mark relaxed on the shoreline with a book.
It was my first time paddle boarding solo, but it was an amazing feeling. The slight breeze kept me on my knees as I paddled out towards the large yellow buoys which dotted the beach. It's surprising how much of a good workout paddling is, especially for the arms and core as they fight to stabilise yourself. I was certainly working off the BBQ and beers we enjoyed the night before!
As I rounded the first buoy I glanced down, and to my surprise found that in the green water loads of large white jellyfish were swimming beneath me. Not just one or two, but a consistent stream, and enough to put me off practicing my stood-up paddling skills for fear of falling in. Jelly fish are not my friends.
Instead I decided to relax for a few minutes, and laid down flat on my board briefly closing my eyes and enjoying the gentle rocking of the ocean as a jet-ski zipped past and a vintage airplane flew above en route to the air show.
Riding the wind to the next buoy I was amazed at the number of jelly fish, all appearing out of the green sea like mysterious marshmallows and passing me by without a care in the world. Excitedly, I wondered if I might see a turtle - apparently they've been spotted off the Dorset coast, attracted by the jellyfish which they eat.
Before I knew it I was getting the signal it was nearly time to go, and I practiced my paddling in the jelly fish free safety of the shallows, before we headed home.
I'm lucky enough that I live in a UK holiday hot spot. Bournemouth is blessed with some of the best of England's weather and beaches which can turn an average weekend a mini break in an instant.
But stained with a reputation for stag and hen groups, nightclubs and nastiness, it's easy to see how you could overlook a town with so much to offer.
Here, I'll take you on a tour of some of my favourite things to do, eat and drink whilst weekending in my Bournemouth.
Art Deco styling at Bournemouth Pavilion Theatre
Beaches
With 7 miles of golden beaches (4 miles in Bournmeouth and 3 in Poole) along one great stretch its easy to plan a wonderful day by the sea. Families can find parking and mini golf in Sandbanks and Alum Chine, whilst day-trippers and holiday makers flood the piers at Bournemouth and Boscombe. Stretch yourself a little further and you'll find a local crowd at the quieter end in Southbourne.
LV= operate a kids safe zone on certain parts of the beach for a little extra piece of mind, and a land train connects Alum Chine to Bournemouth Pier, and Bournemouth Pier to Boscombe Pier.
Beach huts are available to rent from the council, and some owners also rent their huts on sites like gumtree. Expect to spend upwards of £25 per day.
Views of Poole Bay from Overcliff Drive
Cafes
When it's time to seek some shade, there are some great places to grab a snack or sit down to lunch. One of my all time favourite spots is Delice de Champs opposite the Arcade on Westover Road. This french fancy is great for grabbing a croque monsieur and cafe to go, or for a delicious baguette or salad in the french themed interior.
If you're coming straight off the beach, Urban Reef in Boscombe has a small deli for hot drinks and cafes, plus a decked seating area offering a great range of light bites and drinks overlooking the sea. Grab a seat on the decked upper level and watch the world go by.
Afterwards, treat yourself to some of the UK's favourite gelato at Giggi's Gelataria. Recently expanded, Giggi is famous for their award winning gelato and authentic flavours delivered from from Italy.
Lunch Al Fresco at Urban Reef
Dining
Some say the dining options in Bournemouth are limited, but I don't agree. Bournemouth has an excellent selection of restaurants outside of the town centre, which mostly has chain's. Turtle Bay is a recent addition to the town centre scene, and it's Caribbean flair has taken off!
Outside of The Square are the tapas twins Lolitas and Koh Thai in the Triangle (the top of Commercial Road). Lolitas is a staple to Bournemouth and excellent fun if you don't mind a little 'Spanish hospitality'. Koh Thai is part of an expanding empire in the south, serving thai tapas, and proper sized meals in beautiful surroundings.
Towards Westbourne pizza lovers will be split between the authentically Italian and family run Da Mario's and the hipster friendly Baffi (Italian for moustache). Da Mario's started as a take away and has been serving the best pizza in Bournemouth for some time. They've recently expanded adding more tables. New kids on the block Baffi have outlets in Westbourne, Canford Cliffs and Southbourne and are becoming a town favourite with imported beers and a laid back vibe.
Pizza at Baffi with a glass of red.
Nightlife
Bournemouth isn't just a stag and hen mecca; there's plenty of places to enjoy a few drinks or a dance without being hit it the face by a blow up whatever. 1812, within the Royal Exeter Hotel has a good bar and happy hour. Live music is on most weekends and it counts as your daily slice of history as The Exeter Hotel encompasses the building which founded Bournemouth in 1812.
Gay bars are to be found in the Triangle, along with not-specifically-gay Smokin Aces, with a team of talented barmen and women who'll mix you just about anything you like with style and expert knowledge.
Back in Westbourne, recently opened Renoufs offers cheese, charcuterie and wine flights to anyone lucky enough to get a seat. The wine flights are a particular favourite of mine, allowing you to try 3 wines at a time in smaller doses.
Happy Hour at Smokin Aces
Entertainment
The Pavillion and BIC are the resident concert and exhibition centres and an Odeon and ABC cinema run on Westover Road. On summer evenings you can enjoy candle lighting in the gardens (Wednesdays in August) and Family Fiestas and Fireworks on Fridays (July and August).
The Oceanarium is perfect for a cooler day with the kids. The ticket lasts all day and you can meet the new penguins, coo over the otters and watch the turtles being fed.
Happy feet at the Oceanarium
No matter how you decide to spend the day in Bournemouth, I hope you have a wonderful time, and please share your favourite spots with me.
