Crete, Greece

 4-11 June 2016

My cheeks are sore by our second full day in Crete, and when I go for my morning dip in the sea it becomes clear why. I've never been a good snorkeler (something about a fear of inhaling mouthfuls of sea water and some unsuspecting seaweed) so, armed with my goggles and wet shoes, dive in and hold my breath as long as I can before coming up for air. Now I know why my mouth hurts. I swam in the crystal clear waters of Crete's northern coast twice yesterday and I've barely been here 24 hours.

Swimming in the crystal clear waters

It's our summer holiday and were checked in to Meli Palace, somewhere in the rocks between uni goer favourite Malia and sleepy Sissi. The all inclusive hotel isn't our usual style, but it turns out the rumours were true; the food is excellent, the beach is private and the activities on offer will keep even us busy. Tennis, volleyball and kayaking are all on site and there's even an isolated island to swim to and conquer before heading back in time for lunch.

Kayaking!

Sunday is Greek day in the restaurant (though there are Greek dishes available all week) and I particularly enjoy filling my plate with Greek salad, stuffed vine leaves and souvlaki. Couple this with a hearty buffet breakfast and excellent dinner and it's a good thing there are a few opportunities to burn some of it off!

Sometimes all I need is a good book and a sunny spot to read it

We swim, eat and read until the explorer in us can't wait any longer and it's then that we make the 5k walk westwards to neighbouring Malia. Passing though the strip of bars and clubs, we seek out the old town. It's a hidden gem with blue painted doors and flowering climbers decorating the walls at every turn. We are greeted with ice cold sangria and Mythos and watch as the small square sets up for the evenings dinners, most likely a mix of locals of people like us looking for a taste of real Greece.

Malia Old Town

To the east of our slice of Crete is Sissi, which we visit one evening for dinner. Its tiny harbour is picturesque, and the few moored boats bob on the water as the sun slowly sets. We settle ourselves at Hemingway's Bar for chilled sweet red wine by the very large glass whilst the aged rockstar-esque proprietor sips his own glass and tends to his cats. Wandering up the road for dinner we are treated to more warm Greek hospitality, some spontaneous dancing and raki before getting a cap home. 2 people ask me if I'm Greek or have been there before, so I guess my tan is coming along nicely!

Cretan backstreets

Our final night, we book a table at the a la carte restaurant, To Nissi, and are treated to a stunning sunset as we are waited on. Course after course follows, washed down with a few glasses of wine and I can't help but think it's juts the best way to end our week in Crete; feeding our bodies and minds!

We were treated to plenty of beautiful sunsets

Watch our video on Crete below!

Discovering Central Park

It’s the place you’ve seen a thousand times at the cinema and on TV, but nothing is quiet like crossing from the hectic mayhem of the city into the green shelter of Central Park.

Angel of the Waters fountain

I feel like I already know the rocky mounds and leafy paths from cinemas most iconic scenes, like Kramer vs. Kramer, Angels in America and Home Alone. The real things conjures as many surprises and romantic interludes as the movies; the first colours of autumn are starting to emerge and in the distance a jazzy band are playing for dollars.

We started our explorations from the 6^th Avenue entrance, bee-lining towards The Mall. Lots of people hire bikes to make the most of the extensive park, but as they’re restricted to the more main roads, we chose to walk so we could go where we pleased.

Central Park was the only place in New York where I could hear birdsong and the gentle rustle of the leaves as they flitted for berries. Gorgeous birds with fantastic blue plumage were such a treat and squirrels scurried in the trees. Venture far enough north and you’ll even find turtles beside the Great Lawn!

The Mall and Literary Walk

The Mall, my favourite spot, glows green in the sunlight, and the leaves form a canopy over the pathway which is flanked by benches. I could sit here and watch the world go by all day, but at the end it is the Bethesda Terrace beckoning me along. The Bethesda Terrace feels like the centre point of the park watched over by the angel in the fountain.

Bethesda Terrace

For a more woodland vibe, The Ramble and its intertwining network of paths are a stark contrast to the straight and wide boulevards of The Mall. This is where nature flourishes and the city is only found through breaks in the trees or the hum of the distant traffic. Eventually it will lead you to Bow Bridge and you feel like you’re in New York again.

The Lake

For everything you need to plan a day/afternoon/hour in Central Park, visit the Conservancy website or stop by the 6^th Avenue kiosk for a free map and advice.

Sail Back: Marmaris

Marmaris in Turkey will always hold a special place in my heart. It was where I spent my first long holiday alone without my parents. Granted I was 20 years old back in 2009, but my holidays had always been family affairs, and the occasional day in Cherbourg and a long weekend in Barcelona can't really count.

July 2009

Marmaris was a world away from the relative security of fly and flop holidays to Spain in my childhood years, made clear by the long journey which saw us arriving at Ceylan Apartments with the breaking dawn and before the first of the days call to prayer.

Marmaris Old Town

Nestled beneath the hills above it, Marmaris is similar to many resorts, with a wide sweeping bay dotted with restaurants and finished off with a marina. We were here for some sun, and it was guaranteed with the mercury hovering at about 35c most days. Mostly we enjoyed relaxing on the beach whilst kind staff brought us chilled beers and cocktails.

In the evenings, we ran a gauntlet of Maitre d' all making various offers and telling us about the freshness and quality of the food in their restaurant. As our first experience like this we were unprepared and likely made a few bad food choices. I do remember each restaurant tended to dish out a kind of dried bread with what I can only describe as curry butter; it was simple and tasty and I wish I knew more about it. Our hearts were won by the man who simply said "I say nothing". Get me a table!

Parasailing

The beach was popular for watersports due to the size of the bay and space available on the public beach. As soon as we spotted the parasailing boat we knew where the day would take us, and a few hours later we were soaring above Marmaris with spectacular views of the bay. The following day we'd have some fun on the ringo being dragged behind a speedboat whilst we clung on for life!


Of course no trip to Turkey would be complete without exploring the old town and bazaar, and after a pick about the narrow market, we were lured up to a bar by weather worn signposts which boasted panoramic views over the marina. We weren't disappointed, and loved finding a little peace and quiet - we were the only ones there after all!

Seeking out hidden treasures

Marmaris also had everything else a couple of twentysomethings might want from a holiday, some we explored, some we didn't. Boat trips and belly dancers made for a great day and night out, but we stayed away from the nightclubs favouring  poolside fun with the reps and a laugh at the karaoke singing Queen's Bohemian Rhapsody. I figured I had nothing else to loose as I'd already done a drunk Macarena after a fishbowl. Oh and, fishbowls.

Looking back at this first trip now, I can see where so many of our holiday trends have come from. Trends like looking out the hidden gems, boats and watersports, and good times. We were pretty broke, packing our own cereal into our hold luggage, and gladly accepting the free bread from the shop opposite our apartment to make sandwiches with to save money. But we has a great time exploring a new country just the two of us, and that's become the habit of a lifetime.

Ringo fun!

Other blogs from the Sail Back series:

• Sail Back: Zakynthos
• Sail Back: Touring Tuscany
• Sail Back: Bruges