Walking Dorset's Coast: Sandbanks to Middle Beach

Over the summer we will be walking the c.100 miles of Dorset coast in training for our 4 day hike in Peru. Keep track and find inspiration in our Walking Dorset's Coast series, covering routes, handy pubs and fuss-free camping.

Mark and I have both run the 7 miles of Bournemouth and Poole's sea front countless times, so we're giving these miles a miss in favour of more challenging spots, and after braving Hengistbury Head a few weeks ago we took on the sandy shores of Studland.

Parking in Sandbanks and taking the ferry (£1 per person from Sandbanks to Studland, free on the return journey) across the mouth of Poole Harbour to Studland, we walked 3 miles to Middle Beach; the end of the sandy road. From here the South West Coastal Path continues up along the Jurassic Coast.

Studland is famous for it's nudist beach, but I think you'd have to be pretty ballsy to brave the sea on any March day, let along in the nuddy! The craziest thing we saw was a handful of ultra runners competing in the Jurassic Coast Challenge. They were in the last few miles of a marathon, having done 2 marathons in the two days before. I was glad we were spreading our challenge out this time! Being able to walk at a conversational pace, hand in hand with Mark makes such a difference from the strain of running, where we're often miles apart.

With the 3 mile walk back and a chilly wind in our minds, we re-fuelled at the National Trust Knoll Beach Cafe with hot tea and sumptuous slices of cake whilst warming our nipped fingers and dusting the sand from our boots.

On the return leg, the tide started to come and I spotted these little jelly droplets in the sea floor's ripples. If anyone has any idea what they are please share!

By the end of the walk I was ready to put my feet up (6 miles on sand will do that) but felt the sun's effects on my cheeks and am already looking forward to tackling more challenging walks over the coming months. 

Sandbanks to Middle Beach Walking Route Map

Seaside Strolling

With winter daylight at a premium, I love making the most of the Christmas break with a chance to visit the beach for a seaside stroll. The fresh air and churning sea is the best refreshment I know, and you never know what you might find washed up.

The sea was particularly choppy today and the winds had blown lots of seaweed onto the beach.

Possibly Egg Wrack seaweed - dark green with little parcels

Thongweed - long and stringy seaweed

With the seaweed came lots of tiny jellyfish and velella velella which I've never seen before. These cute blue creatures are cousins of the jelly fish family and travel where the wind takes then using their little fins. Cute!

Velella velella

Small pink jellyfish 

Small orange jellyfish

The perfect way to end a winters day.

Sail Back: Zakynthos

The Greek Islands had always seemed like (one of so many) out of reach travel destinations for me, full of secluded beaches, and whitewashed villages I would never be able to afford to visit. 

Thanks to the recession and lowcostholidays.com though in June 2011 I booked my ticket to the Ionian island of Zante.

Panoramic Views

We were booked on our first ever package holiday which promised us an easy journey and no frills unless we wanted them.

I must admit, after a few holidays involving early starts and sleeping in Costa Coffee, I was pleased to let Olympus do their thing and guide me to be destination. I was too engrossed in Captain Corelli's Mandolin about neighbouring island Kefalonia to notice most of the journey there anyway.

View of Kefalonia from Zante

Shipwreck Beach

Zante is famous for having one of the worlds most photographed beached. Navagio Beach is home to the wreck of a smuggling vessel which ran aground in the 1980 after getting into problems.

Whilst on the island we booked onto a boat tour which circles the island starting the Zante town. We passed the beach but unfortunately the conditions weren't suitable for us to land, so instead we swam and jumped into the sea from a calmer spot, poking into caves and coves along the way.

Shipwreck Beach - Zante

Towards the end of the sailing we passed Marathonisi Island, also called Turtle Island on account of its shape and the fact it's a nesting site for loggerhead turtles.

The engines slowed as we passed and everyone craned their heads to catch a glimpse of a turtle. After about 15 minutes hope seemed lost until I head Mark start shouting and pointing. He'd spotted a turtle, and I caught a glimpse before it disappeared into our wake. I was so happy and felt so special to be one of a select view to have seen a turtle that day. Below is a short video of from the boat trip showing the beautiful blue waters and white cliffs.

Tsilivi

Our accommodation was self catering apartments, so we could explore the local restaurants and dive into the amazing Greek food. Tsilivi was a quiet village which was quickly developing and each restaurant had an eager Maitre d' on the door giving out business cards quicker than a phone box on Saturday nights. I didn't care though, I was in Greece, and I was hungry!

Tiny chapel in Tsilivi

We did find some amazing food, including kelftiko, rabbit Zakynthos and a particularly memorable tiramisu. I was amazed and it certainly sparked a love of Greek food in my heart.

When we weren't relaxing pool side or reading, we hiring jet skis or quad bikes to explore the island. We discovered a few treasures including an empty beach bar called Portofino which, though beautiful, would eventually give Mark food poisoning, and a panoramic terrace with views over Zante town.

Portofino Beach Cafe - Zante

Although some may see Zante as a party island, we managed to completely avoid it and get a generous holiday is a quiet area which was exactly what we wanted.

I loved our time in Zante, enjoying the quieter side of a notorious party island which held a few surprises just for us because we were willing to look.

Me and Mark in Zante

Other blog from the Sail Back series:

• Sail Back: Marmaris
• Sail Back: Touring Tuscany
• Sail Back: Bruges

Saturday morning SUP

This weekend I made the most of a sunny moment in the British summer to go stand up paddle boarding (SUP). There's a new surf hire place on Branksome beach called Shaka Surf which I've passed by a few times just waiting for the right conditions to get out on the water.

Saturday morning's forecast was good all week, and when I woke up the sun was already up and shining through a cloudless Dorset sky. We zipped down to the beach just a mile away and within minutes I was out on the water as Mark relaxed on the shoreline with a book.

It was my first time paddle boarding solo, but it was an amazing feeling. The slight breeze kept me on my knees as I paddled out towards the large yellow buoys which dotted the beach. It's surprising how much of a good workout paddling is, especially for the arms and core as they fight to stabilise yourself. I was certainly working off the BBQ and beers we enjoyed the night before!

As I rounded the first buoy I glanced down, and to my surprise found that in the green water loads of large white jellyfish were swimming beneath me. Not just one or two, but a consistent stream, and enough to put me off practicing my stood-up paddling skills for fear of falling in. Jelly fish are not my friends.

Instead I decided to relax for a few minutes, and laid down flat on my board briefly closing my eyes and enjoying the gentle rocking of the ocean as a jet-ski zipped past and a vintage airplane flew above en route to the air show.

Riding the wind to the next buoy I was amazed at the number of jelly fish, all appearing out of the green sea like mysterious marshmallows and passing me by without a care in the world. Excitedly, I wondered if I might see a turtle - apparently they've been spotted off the Dorset coast, attracted by the jellyfish which they eat.

Before I knew it I was getting the signal it was nearly time to go, and I practiced my paddling in the jelly fish free safety of the shallows, before we headed home.

What a way to spend a morning!

An insiders guide to Bournemouth

I'm lucky enough that I live in a UK holiday hot spot. Bournemouth is blessed with some of the best of England's weather and beaches which can turn an average weekend a mini break in an instant.

But stained with a reputation for stag and hen groups, nightclubs and nastiness, it's easy to see how you could overlook a town with so much to offer.

Here, I'll take you on a tour of some of my favourite things to do, eat and drink whilst weekending in my Bournemouth.

Art Deco styling at Bournemouth Pavilion Theatre

Beaches

With 7 miles of golden beaches (4 miles in Bournmeouth and 3 in Poole) along one great stretch its easy to plan a wonderful day by the sea. Families can find parking and mini golf in Sandbanks and Alum Chine, whilst day-trippers and holiday makers flood the piers at Bournemouth and Boscombe. Stretch yourself a little further and you'll find a local crowd at the quieter end in Southbourne.

LV= operate a kids safe zone on certain parts of the beach for a little extra piece of mind, and a land train connects Alum Chine to Bournemouth Pier, and Bournemouth Pier to Boscombe Pier.

Beach huts are available to rent from the council, and some owners also rent their huts on sites like gumtree. Expect to spend upwards of £25 per day.

Views of Poole Bay from Overcliff Drive

Cafes

When it's time to seek some shade, there are some great places to grab a snack or sit down to lunch. One of my all time favourite spots is Delice de Champs opposite the Arcade on Westover Road. This french fancy is great for grabbing a croque monsieur and cafe to go, or for a delicious baguette or salad in the french themed interior.

If you're coming straight off the beach, Urban Reef in Boscombe has a small deli for hot drinks and cafes, plus a decked seating area offering a great range of light bites and drinks overlooking the sea. Grab a seat on the decked upper level and watch the world go by.

Afterwards, treat yourself to some of the UK's favourite gelato at Giggi's Gelataria. Recently expanded, Giggi is famous for their award winning gelato and authentic flavours delivered from from Italy.

Lunch Al Fresco at Urban Reef

Dining

Some say the dining options in Bournemouth are limited, but I don't agree. Bournemouth has an excellent selection of restaurants outside of the town centre, which mostly has chain's. Turtle Bay is a recent addition to the town centre scene, and it's Caribbean flair has taken off!

Outside of The Square are the tapas twins Lolitas and Koh Thai in the Triangle (the top of Commercial Road). Lolitas is a staple to Bournemouth and excellent fun if you don't mind a little 'Spanish hospitality'. Koh Thai is part of an expanding empire in the south, serving thai tapas, and proper sized meals in beautiful surroundings.

Towards Westbourne pizza lovers will be split between the authentically Italian and family run Da Mario's and the hipster friendly Baffi (Italian for moustache). Da Mario's started as a take away and has been serving the best pizza in Bournemouth for some time. They've recently expanded adding more tables. New kids on the block Baffi have outlets in Westbourne, Canford Cliffs and Southbourne and are becoming a town favourite with imported beers and a laid back vibe.

Pizza at Baffi with a glass of red.

Nightlife

Bournemouth isn't just a stag and hen mecca; there's plenty of places to enjoy a few drinks or a dance without being hit it the face by a blow up whatever. 1812, within the Royal Exeter Hotel has a good bar and happy hour. Live music is on most weekends and it counts as your daily slice of history as The Exeter Hotel encompasses the building which founded Bournemouth in 1812.

Gay bars are to be found in the Triangle, along with not-specifically-gay Smokin Aces, with a team of talented barmen and women who'll mix you just about anything you like with style and expert knowledge.

Back in Westbourne, recently opened Renoufs offers cheese, charcuterie and wine flights to anyone lucky enough to get a seat. The wine flights are a particular favourite of mine, allowing you to try 3 wines at a time in smaller doses.

Happy Hour at Smokin Aces

Entertainment

The Pavillion and BIC are the resident concert and exhibition centres and an Odeon and ABC cinema run on Westover Road. On summer evenings you can enjoy candle lighting in the gardens (Wednesdays in August) and Family Fiestas and Fireworks on Fridays (July and August).

The Oceanarium is perfect for a cooler day with the kids. The ticket lasts all day and you can meet the new penguins, coo over the otters and watch the turtles being fed.

Happy feet at the Oceanarium

No matter how you decide to spend the day in Bournemouth, I hope you have a wonderful time, and please share your favourite spots with me.

Sail Back: Marmaris

Marmaris in Turkey will always hold a special place in my heart. It was where I spent my first long holiday alone without my parents. Granted I was 20 years old back in 2009, but my holidays had always been family affairs, and the occasional day in Cherbourg and a long weekend in Barcelona can't really count.

July 2009

Marmaris was a world away from the relative security of fly and flop holidays to Spain in my childhood years, made clear by the long journey which saw us arriving at Ceylan Apartments with the breaking dawn and before the first of the days call to prayer.

Marmaris Old Town

Nestled beneath the hills above it, Marmaris is similar to many resorts, with a wide sweeping bay dotted with restaurants and finished off with a marina. We were here for some sun, and it was guaranteed with the mercury hovering at about 35c most days. Mostly we enjoyed relaxing on the beach whilst kind staff brought us chilled beers and cocktails.

In the evenings, we ran a gauntlet of Maitre d' all making various offers and telling us about the freshness and quality of the food in their restaurant. As our first experience like this we were unprepared and likely made a few bad food choices. I do remember each restaurant tended to dish out a kind of dried bread with what I can only describe as curry butter; it was simple and tasty and I wish I knew more about it. Our hearts were won by the man who simply said "I say nothing". Get me a table!

Parasailing

The beach was popular for watersports due to the size of the bay and space available on the public beach. As soon as we spotted the parasailing boat we knew where the day would take us, and a few hours later we were soaring above Marmaris with spectacular views of the bay. The following day we'd have some fun on the ringo being dragged behind a speedboat whilst we clung on for life!


Of course no trip to Turkey would be complete without exploring the old town and bazaar, and after a pick about the narrow market, we were lured up to a bar by weather worn signposts which boasted panoramic views over the marina. We weren't disappointed, and loved finding a little peace and quiet - we were the only ones there after all!

Seeking out hidden treasures

Marmaris also had everything else a couple of twentysomethings might want from a holiday, some we explored, some we didn't. Boat trips and belly dancers made for a great day and night out, but we stayed away from the nightclubs favouring  poolside fun with the reps and a laugh at the karaoke singing Queen's Bohemian Rhapsody. I figured I had nothing else to loose as I'd already done a drunk Macarena after a fishbowl. Oh and, fishbowls.

Looking back at this first trip now, I can see where so many of our holiday trends have come from. Trends like looking out the hidden gems, boats and watersports, and good times. We were pretty broke, packing our own cereal into our hold luggage, and gladly accepting the free bread from the shop opposite our apartment to make sandwiches with to save money. But we has a great time exploring a new country just the two of us, and that's become the habit of a lifetime.

Ringo fun!

Other blogs from the Sail Back series:

• Sail Back: Zakynthos
• Sail Back: Touring Tuscany
• Sail Back: Bruges

Stand Up Paddle Boarding in Bournemouth

SUP is the most recent watersport to take the UK coast and waterways in its trendy grip. Stand up paddle boarding has already seen spin offs in the field of SUP Pilates and Yoga take this sport, which started in Hawaii, to the masses.

And it's easy to see why it's so popular; participants use a board slightly wider than a surf board and paddle themselves from a standing position. This requires a lot of balance and works your core muscles as you fight against the water for stability, which is great news for anyone like me trying to find new and exciting ways to workout. Not so much a sport as a way to enjoy the water on a day with no significant surf, SUP has been quickly adopted in my hometown of Bournemouth, so I thought it was high time I tried it. I'm happy I can now add SUP to my summer of watersports which has already included sailing and kayaking.

My first class was called off on account of the conditions, but on Sunday 5th July the weather went my way and I made my way excitedly to Surf Steps on Boscombe Beach for class. We started with a safety briefing and Baywatch style warm up before getting straight into the water.

I'll be there!

There was a breeze and the water wasn't quite the mill pond still you'd prefer for a first lesson, so I took my time starting off knelt down and paddling along. Some of the other people in the class were quick to stand and make it all look very easy, so I thought I'd give it a go. Using my hands to bring my feet up beneath me I steadily straightened my legs and stood tall before falling quickly backwards onto my bottom. At least I didn't fall in (to begin with).

I quickly learned that with the wind in the direction it was, my best bet was to paddle into it knelt, then turn and give standing a try whilst the wind was giving me a slightly smoother ride. This way I could practice standing and paddling with some success.

Standing up!

The funniest moment was as I fell off the side of my board and, as I pulled myself back onto it, ended up throwing myself head first, feet in the air, off the other side. I knew my husband had seen from the safety of the beach, and I couldn't help laughing to myself so much the instructor had to ask if I was alright!

Toward the end of the class the wind had picked up even more, but I was happy to paddle about from the relative safety of my knees, enjoying being out on the water. I had such a blast, and can't wait to grab a board on a still summer evening over the next few months. Call me converted, man!

Book your class

SUP and surfing beginner lessons are available from Surf Steps in Boscombe for £35 for a 2 hour class with board, paddle and wet suit provided.

Blissed out in Bali part 2: Kuta

5-15 May

We'd heard mixed reviews about Kuta; an Australian ghetto, a nightlife centre, just plain horrid. Regardless we decided to give it a go, as the beach was well reviewed and we knew we would surely find gems as we do anywhere.

Arriving we discovered Kuta is truly about as different from quiet, sleepy Ubud as you can get. The hawkers were more aggressive, there were more tourists and it wasn't as pretty. We found our place, Hotel Bakung Sari and settled in before going for a walk.

Soon enough we found the beach. It was long, deep and sandy and even had a few lifeguards. The beach was a great place for first time surfers, and it's curve reminded me of my local beach in Bournemouth.

The following day we headed back to the beach. We intended to hire a few beds for the day, but at 200 idr we instead flopped on the sand. It was really hot, around 34degrees, so it wasn't long before the crash of the waves beckoned us in. The water was amazing. It was cool and clear and didn't have any seaweed! I was in heaven jumping over the waves and splashing about like a kid. There were a lot of people selling things, from handy things like ice cream to more unconventional beach paraphernalia like bows and arrows, but we'd mastered our "no" face by now so it wasn't much of a bother.

In the evening the road near us was closed and full of people in traditional Balinese dress participating in some kind of ritual. The street smelled of incense and the sound of the gongs rang out. It was nice to know there are still parts of traditional Balinese life in Kuta.

On Wednesday we decided it was time to try out something new, and this time it was body boarding. Mark hadn't done it before and it had been a long time for me. We managed to negotiate hire on one board for the day for 80 idr. After a while I got my sea legs back and rode my first wave all the way to the shoreline. The waves were big enough to surf on, but I held my own amongst the surfers I think. It's such a great feeling when the wave picks you up; all the tiredness from your paddling is instantly replaced with excitement. Mark was a natural too, of course, and I get to thinking about if this could be a new hobby for at home?

We enjoyed a few more lazy days before Marks birthday on the 10th. He'd decided he wanted to go to a water park and it turns out we are only a hop skip and a jump away from Waterbom, Asia's number 1 water park! I'm dubious about how good it will be, but I'm so pleasantly surprised! The slides are great quality and the park is clean and safe. We have a fantastic day racing, dropping and swirling around on the flumes and slides and burn countless calories climbing all the steps.

In the afternoon we chat to our friends before going for a sunset drink on the beach. We eat at Havana, a Latino restaurant which lured Mark in with it's temping chicken wing challenge. I'll let him tell you about that! Afterwards, we thought about finding some nightlife, which we hadn't done since leaving the UK. We were given info on the beach about the Sky Garden and decide to give it a go. It was a mostly empty super club and we eventually found the 'VIP traveller lounge offering free drinks and tapas' or 'room for drunk teenagers with free blue vodka drinks from the sticky bar'. It isn't long before we decided to leave, and when we did we found a different world outside. Kuta had become Ibiza! We had no idea this was where it all happened, only a few roads from where we had been staying. Its surprising, but no where could tempt us in.

The rest on our time in Kuta is quiet. We enjoy the beach and pool at the hotel and discover some great places to eat, namely pizza from Pizza Pronto on Poppies 1, and Fat Chow for a mix of Asian cuisine on Poppies 2.

Before we knew it it was time to pack. We'd come to the end of our time in Bali and South East Asia and we are going to Italy for the summer. Looking back its amazing how much we've seen and done in the past 2 and a half months; going south to north in Vietnam, the temples of Angkor, island hopping in Thailand - its been amazing.

I came travelling, giving up a safe secure life at home because there was something inside me that needed to get out there; go where the wind took me and find out what I liked. I've learnt so much, a few of which I've already mentioned, but I'll leave now feeling I've done what I came to do. That's why I decided to remove my anklet. I bought it and put it on in Mexico on our honeymoon, when our travels were just an idea. I promised myself it would be a daily reminder of what we would be working towards, and I've done it.

Ko Samui and Songkran

12-19 April

After a 24 hour door to door journey from Bangkok, we finally arrived at our destination on Ko Samui.

We had decided to stay in a bungalow on the beach for the week; cabanas a bit like those we stayed in in Tulum. We weren't disappointed. The bar and restaurant area opened onto stunning views of the turquoise blue sea and Ko Phangnan on the horizon.

We relaxed on the beach for the afternoon and had a great dinner of red and penang curry for dinner.

Beautiful view from Island Hoppers bar

The following day was something we had been waiting for with some anticipation since hearing about it in Hue. It was Thai New Year which they celebrate with a festival called Songkran. We had been warned that the minute we left our room we would be fair game for a splashing. Everything seemed calm at first so we set up on the beach, but loud dance music started across the street and eventually lured us out.

What had been a sleepy fruit stand was now a hive of activity where kids with water pistols and teenagers with buckets drowned passers by on their mopeds or sat in the back of pick up trucks. We were soon invited to their side to join the party and share the beer, the owner telling us today is a free day. One woman down the road, an American called Donna, was helping slow the traffic by hula hooping in the middle of the road! It really was crazy!

After some chicken feet red curry and noodles, the teenagers started loading water buckets into a pick up and next thing I knew, Mark had bargained us a couple of seats and we were driving towards Cheweng hurling water at anything that moved. Driving down the street it was clear everyone got involved today; even the guarded 5 star resorts had their guests and staff at the gate with hoses.

We ended the day with a yummy BBQ at the rasta bar a few doors down, exhausted! It was a day I will never forget...

..because is the morning I woke up with terrible stomach cramps like I've never has before. Luckily they were only pain, though excruciating, so I didn't need a Pharmacy and I think I am right in saying it was the amount of potentially unclean water I would have ingested the previous day.

Our pink bike. Well, it was me driving after all!

The next few days were spent relaxing, recovering (for me) and getting reacquainted with a slower pace of life. We'd been on the move for over a month by now, so knowing we had 7 days somewhere was very welcome. 

After recovering, we decided to hire a bike for the day. I had broken 2 pairs of flip flops and Mark was in great need of a haircut. I must admit I was a little nervous getting back on a moped after 5 or so years, but I soon got back in the swing of it. It was great to be on the road again and that evening we found a secluded beach with stunning sunset views for dinner.

Swing time at Freedom Beach for sunset

Before we knew it, it was time to pack our bags again and head off to our next stop, Ko Phangnan!

Nha Trang

30 March - 1 April

Again, our trip to Nha Trang started the same as every other journey: with an early start. By 7:30 in the morning were rolling down from Dalat through beautiful scenery and simply stunning views.

Once we arrived (and eventually found our hotel) we grabbed a quick pizza before heading to the beach for a dip in the sea. It's immediately clear that Nha Trang is a true beach resort. There was a long promenade against the sand and helpful vendors offer you their sun beds.

We decided to set up camp under the shade of a palm tree on our towels and head for the ocean. The sea was a delight, cool and clear. There was a breeze too so a few kiteboarders were about to provide entertainment.

We dried off on the sand then headed back to the hotel when the afternoons clouds arrived for a nap.

The next day we remembered why hotels with breakfast included are so good! Banana pancakes are a great way to start the day!

We'd booked a boat trip today so we could see the islands around Nha Trang. From experience we also know a boat trip was a good excuse for some fun and this one didn't let us down.

We goggled (because the snorkel was rubbish) and saw lots of fish. At a floating fish market we saw lobsters, squid and various fish for sale. Whilst a squid was being caught we got to see the full force of its ink!

The day ended with karaoke and a happy hour drink in the sea, which I celebrated by jumping in from the top of the boat (after Mark, to make sure it was safe!).

We enjoyed cheap food and BOGOF cocktails that night before an early night as we were leaving for Hoi An at the most ungodly hour the next morning!