My Peru Diary

12 - 21 September

South America. Vibrant cultures, awesome scenery and high octane travel. We found it all in 11 days in Peru!

We arrive in Lima, having watched 5 movies, eaten 3 meals and gone for about 4 leg stretching loo breaks. We were tired but excited as we reached arrivals and looked for the man with or name. After about 10 minutes we realised he wasn't there. A quick call the hotel and soon enough someone appeared with our name and we were on our way.

Lima is an enormous and gregarious city. About 40 mins from the airport we arrived at our hotel, Casa Cielo in Miraflores, opposite a chocolate museum (was I dreaming?).

Soon enough I was, wrapped up in the down duvet and silky alpaca wool blanket, until the jet lag caught up with me at about 5am.

I could hear a chirping outside my window coming from the tree opposite our balcony. Once the sun had risen, I peeked out and saw a hummingbird fluttering around the flowers in the tree. I couldn't believe it; I was in Peru!

Cusco

Our friendly driver was a local tour guide and introduced us to the city as we made the short drive to our hotel in Cusco from the airport the following morning.

Eager to explore the city we headed to Placa de Armas, the centre of the historic city centre. The 2 churches dominate the square on the north and easterly side, and a fountain in the centre drew the crowds. The evening sun was illuminating the city in a terracotta glow; this was what we came for!

Placa de Armas, Cusco

Cusco was a pleasure, with friendly people, excellent food and a wonderful vibe. Its old town is small but perfectly formed and there's charm around every corner.

Our hotel, Rumi Punku, was a beautiful mix of a Balinese home stay and a Moroccan riad, with decorated courtyards and balconied room emerging from the walls. Our family sized room came with a spa bath, views of the hillside and 3 beds!

Whilst in Cusco we spent our days acclimatizing, exploring the Sacred Valley and rafting on the Urumbamba river. Before we knew it we were at our briefing for the Inca trail, which would start with a 4am wake up call ahead of 4 days of hiking to the iconic Machu Picchu inca site; the reason we'd come.

Read all about our Inca Trail experience

Last nights dinner of #Porkbelly with rice and an #orchid at Morena Peruvian Kitchen, Cusco! Absolutely loved this place 😘 #travel #foodie #Cusco #eatyourheartout #instafood #foodporn #peru

A photo posted by Claire Gale (@clairemgale) on Sep 14, 2016 at 4:50am PDT

Lima

After the Inca Trail (and a well earned shower) we returned to Lima for a few days R&R.

With a bit of time in Lima, we were happy to explore the city at a snails pace, and whilst we didn't venture beyond the suburb or Miraflores, I think it had everything we needed.

Our first stop was Parc del Amor, adorned with an enormous statue of 2 lovers embrace, gaudi-esque mosaic terraces and panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean. Couples were everywhere; their names carved into the trees, written into the tiles and their padlocks on the fencing. It was a small but beautiful place which offered much needed calmness in the busy city.

Parc Del Amour in Lima 🇵🇪🌎 #lp #instatravel #adventure #instagram #travel #seetheworld #lima #peru #parcdelamour #igers #igdaily #viewpoint #views #seaside #gaudi #miraflores

A photo posted by Mark Gale (@mark_gale) on Sep 20, 2016 at 2:15pm PDT

The following day we drove through the port town of Callao then to Palomino Islands by boat for a spot of wildlife spotting. We weren't disappointed, getting to see Pelicans, Blue-footed Boobys, Humboldt Penguins and Sea lions; which we even got a chance to swim with!

Much of the rest of our time was spent eating at the likes of Panchita, and Hencho en Casa, with a drink or two at La Emolienteria.

Lima street art in Miraflores 🐠 #Lima #Peru #southamerica #streetart #blue #underthesea #intravel #igdaily #seetheworld #letsgetlost #wanderlust #instaart #art

A photo posted by Claire Gale (@clairemgale) on Sep 21, 2016 at 5:40am PDT

On our final day we indulged in a chocolate ganache and truffle making class at Choco Museum. In just 2 hours we learnt the art of tempering chocolate, how to create ganache and decorate truffles. Plus, we got to take away 12  chocolates handmade by us each!

Then all of a sudden our bags were packed and it was time to go home. Another trip ticked off the bucket list; another country to scratch off the map. Peru had been as colourful, mysterious and energetic as I hoped it would be. I'm not sure life will ever be the same!

Finally had a pisco sour last night - can see why it's popular in these parts! 🍸 #lima #travelling #seetheworld #lp #adventure #piscosour #cocktails #travel #peru #instatravel #igdaily #igers #instagram #southamerica #citylife #culture #newexperiences

A photo posted by Mark Gale (@mark_gale) on Sep 21, 2016 at 6:50am PDT

Hasta luego!

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Peru

We will get to the packing lists and how to prepare blogs on the Inca Trail in good time, but for now I'm just going to tell you, without giving too much away, my experience of the Inca Trail.

You might be reading this because you're thinking of doing the Inca Trail, or just because you're interested in hearing about it, but here's the honest truth.

The Inca trail is hard

Waking up before 6am and walking for 5+ hours isn't many people's idea of a holiday, and it's hard work to get yourself up, prepared and motivated each morning. If you're coming from the UK you have jet lag on your side, so take my advice and keep waking up at 5am before you start the trail.

The Inca trail is longer than it sounds

26 miles does not seem long - its a 30 minute drive. People run marathons in a matter of hours! Wrong. You tackle these 26 miles at a fraction of the speed you might normally. The combination of altitude, incline, the bag on your back and the prospect of 4 more days of the same mean you need to pace yourself, and if that means going 2mph - so be it. Enjoy the scenery, stop to breathe it in, then carry on putting one foot in front of the other.

The Inca trail is beautiful

Possibly never again will you feel like or be, just a tiny speck of a person in the middle of enormous mountains and deep valleys. The wildlife, the flowers, and clouds even are all the motivation you will need and with every meter gained or lost, your whole environment will change. From clouds and rock to humidity and orchids; it's a beautiful trail.

The Inca trail is major bragging rights

Nothing will make you feel more smug than reaching the outskirts of Machu Picchu and hearing the day trippers coughing and spluttering over the few steps they've climbed to reach the perfect selfie spot. Like the marathon runners finishing alongside the 5k runners, you admire the fact they've made the trip, but there's something extraordinary about the physical and emotional journey you've been on.

The Inca trail is worth it

It's so worth it. The biggest fear I had on the Inca Trail was that once I reached the end, it would be an anticlimax. But on that morning, after the 3am wake up call, the queuing, and the final hike, reaching Machu Picchu and seeing it emerge from the clouds, as we emerged from the trail, it all came together. The challenges of the trail are worth it, and the journey is the destination.

Watch our story of the trail below.

Wildlife Spotting and Sea Lion Swimming at Palomino Island, Lima

Lima is a big city, and if spending hours in traffic trying to get to museums isn't your thing, getting out of the city could be one way to spend a day.

We did just this when we booked a half day tour of Palomino Island, a short boat ride from the port suburb of Callao. The drive itself was insightful as we passed so many old and dilapidated colonial buildings as we passed through the old port town of Lima.

Shortly after we were en route to the islands; a sort of mini Galapagos in Peru. Take a closer look at the beautiful animals we saw and see our top tips for a pleasant trip below.

Blue footed booby

Humboldt Penguins

Inca Tern

Pelicans

Sea lions

Top tips for your Palomino Island tour

We booked our tour through Viator, and would recommend it to anyone looking for an up-close experience with Sea lions. Here's some other tips from us:

1. Be prepared: The area where the Sea lions nest is exactly that - their home - and there's a stink you won't be able to forget for a while. This also means the water isn't as crystal clear as you might like. Try not to get any in your mouth when you jump in.
2. Take a snack and water: We were lucky enough to get some juice and crisps (chips) for the return journey, but just in case this isn't on offer, we'd recommend bringing a small snack to help you deal the bad taste that might be left in your mouth after your swim.
3. Enjoy it: There's not many opportunities to have real life encounters with animals in their natural habitat, so make the most of it, and enjoy that these animals are happy and curious about you and not stuck in a zoo doing tricks for food. 

The Sacred Valley, Peru

Exploring the Sacred Valley is top of many people's lists when visiting Cusco, or Peru in general. The valley is home to many ancient sites built by the Inca's, the people who lived in the area immediately before, and slightly after the arrival of the Spanish.

A short Inca history lesson

Incan tribes had been living in the Cusco area since the 12th Century, but the Incan empire existed formally from 1438 - 1533 and stretched along the western ridge of South America, centering in the Peruvian Andes. Patchacuti is thought to be responsible for the rapid expansion of the empire, and commissioned the building of sites such as Machu Picchu.

When Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador (am I in an Indiana Jones movie?), arrived from Panama in 1529 he returned to Spain to received royal approval to conquer the region and be its viceroy, then captured the Inca King Atahualpa and used him to demand gold as ransom from the Inca's, before killing him.

The Inca's were eventually wiped out, their history and traditions with them, in 1572 when Tupac Amaru was killed following 36 years of Neo-Incan survival in the mountains.

With no written language, there's very little in terms of historical proof to help us understand the purpose of some of the ancient sites in the sacred valley. Many have been lost to the mountains, and more are still being excavated as we speak.

Pisac

Your first stop on a tour of the Sacred Valley from Cusco is likely to be Pisac. From Cusco you will climb through the mountains and stunning scenery before reaching the valley. The Inca site had been build into the hillside and in framed by terraces. It's these terraces which you'll see time and time again in the Sacred Valley.

It's a windy road to the city, but once there you're treated to breathtaking views and a chance to explore the pathways. The burial chambers in Pisac are of particular note, and I recommend making the walk to the "city centre" on the far side.

Looking out across the Incan temple at #Pisac #temple #adventure #travel #scenery #southamerica #peru #seetheworld #newexperiences #instagram #instatravel #igers #igdaily #view #travelling #lp

A photo posted by Mark Gale (@mark_gale) on Sep 23, 2016 at 9:14am PDT

Pisac is also home to a market with lots of souvenirs available, however these are no different to the items you will find in Cusco or any other market in the Sacred Valley. There's lots to tempt you, and it's certainly worth picking up a gift or two, but don't be disheartened if you don't have time - enjoy seeing the sites and shop back in Cusco.

Ollantaytambo

Next on your Sacred Valley tour will be Ollantaytambo. This ancient city is still active and a real treat to explore if you have the time. Unlike other Inca sites, in Ollantaytambo the city was built in the valley - thanks to a pre-existing community when the Incas arrived - so the mountians were dedicated to the building of temples. The steep stairs take you to the temple of the sun and some stunning examples in Inca architecture.

Keep an eye out got the watchtowers on the neighbouring hills. Ollantaytambo was well guarded and it's believed the face of god can be seen in the mountain opposite the temple.

Quechua girls in Ollantaytambo - by @clairemgale on Instagram

In the town below the ancient site, you'll find Inca streets, with their channels of running water, and quint squares in the colonial style brought by the Spanish.

Many people stay in Ollantaytambo before starting the Inca Trail and it's on the train line to Machu Picchu, so if you've an evening to spare, I'd recommend staying the night and soaking up the atmosphere.

Other places of interest

In addition to the cities of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, a typical tour of the Sacred Valley may also include a trip to the salt mines at Maras, the Inca site as Moray, meeting typical Quechua weavers at a women's co-operative, a visit to a llama farm and Chinchero.

We booked our Sacred Valley tour with Viator - check it out!

Below: Patchacuti statue at Aguas Calientes, greeting people on their way to Machu Picchu

Incan king statue in Aguas Calientes #travelling #seetheworld #southamerica #peru #adventure #incas #statue #aguascalientes #travel #instatravel #igdaily #igers #instagram #lp

A photo posted by Mark Gale (@mark_gale) on Sep 20, 2016 at 2:08pm PDT

Chocolate Truffle and Ganache Workshop @ Choco Museum, Lima

Booking a hotel opposite a chocolate museum and workshop could be seen as a cruel joke, or an invitation to get messy.

If you're looking for something a little sweeter than Pisco Sours to play with in Peru, Choco Museum's range of workshops could be right up your street. Choco Museum uses fresh Peruvian cocoa in all their products and has a delicious range of bars, jams and other chocolaty treats for sale.

Their workshops include "from bean to bar" and farm tours, and whilst in Lima we tried the truffle and ganache workshop.

The 2 hour class is just S75 (Peruvian Soles) or about £20 making it a sweet deal as we also got to take 12 chocolates of our own making home with us.

Here's a little taste of what to expect...



Choco Museum has locations across South & Central America in Peru, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic and Colombia.

Enjoy!

Walking Dorset's Coast: Sandbanks to Middle Beach

Over the summer we will be walking the c.100 miles of Dorset coast in training for our 4 day hike in Peru. Keep track and find inspiration in our Walking Dorset's Coast series, covering routes, handy pubs and fuss-free camping.

Mark and I have both run the 7 miles of Bournemouth and Poole's sea front countless times, so we're giving these miles a miss in favour of more challenging spots, and after braving Hengistbury Head a few weeks ago we took on the sandy shores of Studland.

Parking in Sandbanks and taking the ferry (£1 per person from Sandbanks to Studland, free on the return journey) across the mouth of Poole Harbour to Studland, we walked 3 miles to Middle Beach; the end of the sandy road. From here the South West Coastal Path continues up along the Jurassic Coast.

Studland is famous for it's nudist beach, but I think you'd have to be pretty ballsy to brave the sea on any March day, let along in the nuddy! The craziest thing we saw was a handful of ultra runners competing in the Jurassic Coast Challenge. They were in the last few miles of a marathon, having done 2 marathons in the two days before. I was glad we were spreading our challenge out this time! Being able to walk at a conversational pace, hand in hand with Mark makes such a difference from the strain of running, where we're often miles apart.

With the 3 mile walk back and a chilly wind in our minds, we re-fuelled at the National Trust Knoll Beach Cafe with hot tea and sumptuous slices of cake whilst warming our nipped fingers and dusting the sand from our boots.

On the return leg, the tide started to come and I spotted these little jelly droplets in the sea floor's ripples. If anyone has any idea what they are please share!

By the end of the walk I was ready to put my feet up (6 miles on sand will do that) but felt the sun's effects on my cheeks and am already looking forward to tackling more challenging walks over the coming months. 

Sandbanks to Middle Beach Walking Route Map

My 2016 Travel Plans

My favourite part about the new year is planning our exciting adventures for the next 12 months. A fresh dose of annual leave and the blight of Christmas and MOT spending behind me sees me flicking through Traveller magazine for inspiration and scouring the web for deals. 

I like taking the time to reflect on the experiences and memories I've collected over the year, which for 2015 includes our first camping stay-cation, the bright lights of New York and the magic of the Marrakesh Medina. 

2015 has been an important year for us; back home after 6 months of whirlwind travelling, building a home and working on our careers. But now we've settled our souls and I'm chomping at the bit to plan the coming year, so much so I'm almost done already! 

So without further ado, here are some of my travel plans and dreams for 2016...

Barcelona

I'm kicking off the year with a cheeky January weekend away in Barcelona with my husband. I can think of nothing better than the colours of Park Guell and the rich flavours of paella to brush off the January blues. Barcelona was the first place I visited as a young traveller, when I was naive and broke so I'm looking forward to getting to know the city all over again!

Walking Dorset

Over the Spring months I'll be testing out my new Berghaus walking boots on the peaks and cliffs of the Dorset Jurassic Coast and South West Coastal Path. Walking will be a big change of pace from my regular running but I'm looking forward to the opportunity to take in the beautiful scenery and enjoy the gorgeous countryside I'm blessed to live among. 

Peru

All the walking will be excellent training for the biggest trip of my year; Peru! In September we will be jetting off to the dizzying heights of Cuzco to begin hiking the Inca Trail with Alpaca Expeditions. The Inca Trail and Machu Picchu have been on my list for as long as I've had one and I'm so excited to finally be on my way to South America. So much so I'm already brushing up on my Spanish!

Summer Holiday

If there's one thing that was missing from 2015 it was horizontal holidays. We both work very and like to play hard too, but every now and then everyone needs to take some time to laze under the sun with a cold drink and endless supply of books. I've been cautioned against booking or looking until after 25th December but I'm dreaming of a Grecian or Croatian escape, white washed buildings and the big blue sea.

Camping

Despite a fairly rough camping experience last summer, I'm determined to make the most of every available sunny Dorset weekend by packing up the car and checking into a campsite. The perfect excuse to combine Peru training with a monthly mini-holiday and all the excitement that goes with it! 

Well, that's 17 of my 22 days annual leave allocated and I haven't even booked Christmas yet, so be warned mid-week-weddings! 

I know that we are very lucky to be able to travel to much and so well, but believe me with careful planning and budgeting it's possible to make all your travel dreams a reality. 

What are your travel dreams for 2016?

Buen Viaje!