Saturday, 25 July 2015

Surf and Sun in Perranporth, Cornwall

6 - 10 July 2015

Years since my last surf session, or camping holiday, our recent trip to Perranporth on the north coast of Cornwall was bound to hold a few surprises.

After a long drive from Dorset, we arrived at Perran Sands Holiday Park in late afternoon and battled the strong winds to set up camp. What had happened to the warm and still days of the week before?

Ideally located in the dunes, our campsite was a steep but short walk to Perranporth Beach which took my breath away with its rough naturalness and the size of the waves. The main reason Mark and I decided on Cornwall was for the surf, as we both wanted the chance to develop our board skills.

We rented a learner board and a couple of wetsuits from Bathsheba Surf Shop in the village. It was about £45 for 3 days - which is a great deal - and luckily they were also happy to look after the board overnight, saving us a long walk back to the campsite with the board under our arms!

Mark heading out for his first surf

Our first day's surfing had some rough conditions, not helped by the fact I had my head in SUP mode after my recent class, but despite the weather I managed to get to my feet a few times. Incredibly, the beach was spattered with jelly fish, both washed up and the tide line, and in the shallows. Jelly fish are a big fear of mine, so I was proud I managed to put it to the back of my mind and focus on catching some waves.

The following day was much sunnier, warmer and had all round better surf conditions. Both Mark and I got a few hours surfing in between dozing on the beach, reading and lunch at The Watering Hole. The water was sparkling blue and there was a real summer feeling in the air. Before we knew it, it was 4pm and we'd spent 6 hours in the water! We were exhausted but had had an amazing day.

The summer returns; bring me the sea!

Back at the campsite I was enjoying spending so much time outdoors. There's something about scrambling about in the morning to make a cup of tea and midnight walks to the toilets which is reviving at least if not relaxing. No phone signal or wifi definitely helped us digitally detox, something I desperately needed.

Perran Sands is a family orientated park, with all the child friendly amenities you'd need as a family. I admit, we were a little out of place as a twenty-something couple with a 3 man tent and a BBQ. We were surrounded by touring vehicles with electric hookups and windbreaks, and whilst they undoubtedly waited out the wind and rain with the evening entertainment, we cuddled up to watch Skyfall in our sleeping bags with a mug of Dorset Tea and a pack of Fudges Florentines.

Once we'd worn ourselves out on the waves and had fastened our ear plugs in place against the wind, it was easy to drift off, still feeling the rock of the waves in our bones knowing we'd squeezed all the surfing and sun tanning we could out of the British weather.

59 years between these pictures of me and my uncle in Perranporth

A special few moments on our trip included receiving a collection on photos from my mum of my grandparents and baby uncle enjoying a day in Perranporth in 1959. My Nan was the epitome of a pin up, and I had fun re-creating the images, though the light conditions weren't in our favour.

One sunny morning, we made our way to Newquay, which I had been to a few times before as a teenager with a friend and her family. I thought I'd have some memories coming back to me, but I was left blind to everything but the vision of boardmasters on Fistral Beach back in the early 2000's. Newquay is still a lively town, and Fistral Beach is certainly worth your time, especially with The Stables, and Rick Stein restaurants all to hand.

Fistral Beach, Newquay

Keep sailing with my coming posts which will take more trips down memory lane as I blog about my adventures before I launched Weigh The Anchor in my Sail back series, including 24 hours in Bruges and cruising down the Nile.

Monday, 20 July 2015

Stand Up Paddle Boarding in Bournemouth

SUP is the most recent watersport to take the UK coast and waterways in its trendy grip. Stand up paddle boarding has already seen spin offs in the field of SUP Pilates and Yoga take this sport, which started in Hawaii, to the masses.



And it's easy to see why it's so popular; participants use a board slightly wider than a surf board and paddle themselves from a standing position. This requires a lot of balance and works your core muscles as you fight against the water for stability, which is great news for anyone like me trying to find new and exciting ways to workout. Not so much a sport as a way to enjoy the water on a day with no significant surf, SUP has been quickly adopted in my hometown of Bournemouth, so I thought it was high time I tried it. I'm happy I can now add SUP to my summer of watersports which has already included sailing and kayaking.

My first class was called off on account of the conditions, but on Sunday 5th July the weather went my way and I made my way excitedly to Surf Steps on Boscombe Beach for class. We started with a safety briefing and Baywatch style warm up before getting straight into the water.

I'll be there!


There was a breeze and the water wasn't quite the mill pond still you'd prefer for a first lesson, so I took my time starting off knelt down and paddling along. Some of the other people in the class were quick to stand and make it all look very easy, so I thought I'd give it a go. Using my hands to bring my feet up beneath me I steadily straightened my legs and stood tall before falling quickly backwards onto my bottom. At least I didn't fall in (to begin with).

I quickly learned that with the wind in the direction it was, my best bet was to paddle into it knelt, then turn and give standing a try whilst the wind was giving me a slightly smoother ride. This way I could practice standing and paddling with some success.

Standing up!


The funniest moment was as I fell off the side of my board and, as I pulled myself back onto it, ended up throwing myself head first, feet in the air, off the other side. I knew my husband had seen from the safety of the beach, and I couldn't help laughing to myself so much the instructor had to ask if I was alright!

Toward the end of the class the wind had picked up even more, but I was happy to paddle about from the relative safety of my knees, enjoying being out on the water. I had such a blast, and can't wait to grab a board on a still summer evening over the next few months. Call me converted, man!


Book your class


SUP and surfing beginner lessons are available from Surf Steps in Boscombe for £35 for a 2 hour class with board, paddle and wet suit provided.

Thursday, 2 July 2015

Bermondsey Beer Mile, London

A craft-beer-athon isn't my usual style, but after developing a taste for red beers at the summer fiesta in Santo Stefano, Italy last year, I was up for the chance to discover the London scene.

The Bermondsey Beer Mile is a collection of craft beer breweries all tucked around the train line running from South Bermondsey to Tower Bridge.

Bermondsey isn't an area of London I'm familiar with, and heading up to stop number 1 through an industrial estate, I didn't think I was going to enjoy my day. Mark and his friends had planned the day and brought the wives along too. As we approached Forepure though, my spirits lifted and I realised this is an already pretty developed operation, hiding behind the scenes in the city. Here's what happened:

1. Forepure

There was already a queue and a crowd at 11am, and of the most unlikely people. Seniors from up north, a loved up couple and a few day trippers like us. Where were all the hipsters I was expecting?

Branded glassware, electronic tills and a street food van were all in place, as well as port-a-loo's and a few scattered benched. Don't worry that is stinks of booze - it's also the brewery. Soak up the factory like atmosphere without a hair net or safety goggle in sight.

On the suggestion of my husband, I chose my first pre-noon drink to be a Roux. I don't claim to be a beer expert, but it was tasty! I was pleased they had the bottle option available, as the draught tap was off.

2. Partizan Brewery

A short walk from Forepure, stop number 2 along the mile was Partizan. Tucked up an old access road and nestled into a recently renovated train line arch, Partizan had a proper loo and a few benches. A quick scout at the menu had me settled on Saison with Lemongrass. It was very pale and refreshing, the lemongrass adding a delicious spice - this was a beer I'd happily drink again!

We'd clearly beaten the crown here, but it wasn't long before they caught up, some poor woman actually running to ahead of the crowd! In her defense though, there was only one toilet, and the seals were about to be broken.

3. Kernel Brewery

Stop 3 is The Kernal Brewery which passed by an emerging micro market featuring an Enoteca, cheese shop and honey shop.

Kernals was larger than the previous 2 breweries, and had a shop where you could buy beer to enjoy later. No outside drinking was allowed here, and I wasn't as impressed with the options, settling for Table Beer.

It was very busy with the queue quickly lengthening as the bulk of the mile-tourists arrived. Stay ahead to get served quicker.

The best bit about Kernals was it's proximity to food and the fact it had not 1 but 2 toilets!

4. Brew by Numbers

This is were we found the hipsters. Just a hop, skip and a jump from Maltby Market (see bottom of post) Brew by Numbers was where we found the mustache'd crowd.

A few long benches, hole in the wall shop and upturned barrels were all it seemed to take to turn this brewery opposite a housing estate into a hangout.

I can't really remember what I drank, but it was refreshing, and beer at the very least. By now we were starting to feel the effects!

5. The Bottle Shop

Around the corner, The Bottle shop beckoned us in, and dizzy from all the brew, Mark and I opted to share a Brown Ale with Maple Syrup. I only had one sip before deciding I should have had the one with Rooibos (tea).

At least The Bottle Shop had free water on the tables though. That was much needed after a day's walking and drinking.

The Bottle Shop is where we ended our mile. I couldn't go on. I needed something non gassy, preferably served in a cocktail glass. But we did pass the final stop Ansbach and Bobday; it was crowded!

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised with the Bermondsey Beer Mile and I have a lot of respect for local businesses being creative with how they find customers. Who needs the likes of multiple retailers when you can pop to your local brewer for the goods!

Maltby Market

One of my favourite parts of the day was exploring Maltby Market; a foodie nirvana squeezed down a back alley. Fresh oysters and smoked salmon rubbed shoulders with scotch eggs and ice cream sandwiches.

For lunch I opted for a Brazilian steak wrap, and a few squared of baklava; I even for 2 for the price of 3. There were girly drinks on one side and grilling on the other, but the atmosphere was electric!

Map of Bermondsey Beer Mile


Monday, 22 June 2015

Wakey Wakey, Paddle and Breakie in Studland

13th June

This may have been the weekend of Jurassic World the movie, but this weekend I explored the Jurassic Coast of Dorset with a little help from the National Trust.

I'd discovered the kayak and breakfast morning whilst researching local events for work, and knew this would tick all the boxes for the perfect birthday gift for my husband. Outdoors; check! Scenic; check! Workout; check!

It was an early start to be at Knoll Beach for 8.15am, and the pressure is always on when you realise you're meant to be there at 8am! So, unprepared and over dressed we arrived and slid ourselves into wetsuits and joined the rest of the pack. We'd not thought to bring swimwear so prayed we didn't fall in.


The beach was sodden with seaweed which made for a crunchy then spongy walk to the shoreline with the kayak, and up there with some of my worst nightmares, especially with no scuba shoes! Finally though I was in my kayak and remembering how to get myself moving. Then I heard a splash and realised Mark wasn't getting on so well, and was off kayak, in the sea and starting what would become a bit of  a habit!

With the wind behind us, we coasted along the bay quite pleasantly, taking in the sights of the old and sea worn beach huts, and a World War 2 pillbox, a quite uncommon sight given the Dorset coast's involvement in WW2 training.

Slowly the beach broke into cliffs from the Cretaceous period which led all the way to Old Harry Rocks, one of the most famous sights in Dorset. The water was shallow and clear and despite the overcast weather the cliffs were illuminated.



At the base of the cliffs next to Old Harry, we were able to explore the "beach" make from smoothed rocks from natural erosion. Here we were able to swim and explore the rocks, or, if like me you're scared of seaweed, be dragged gently to a safe spot. It was wonderful to finally be up close to the rocks which have dominated my view as a resident of Bournemouth and Poole across the bay for a lifetime.

After resting our arms, we clambered back into the kayaks (Mark fell in again) and we circled Old Harry and continued towards Swanage before cutting back through a cave and back into Poole Bay (3rd and final swim for Mark). The wind had picked up on the other side, and we were now battling against it, the taste of bacon on our lips. Courteously, I kept watch at the back of the pack of 20 or so other adventurers, bringing up the rear in my usual way.

As we neared the beach the wind calmed and we slid towards the sand with the sun on our backs and the birds singing. What a wonderful way to start the weekend!



Find out more about the National Trust events at Studland and book yourself a Dorset adventure now!

Explore a real Jurassic world at jurassiccoast.org

Tuesday, 9 June 2015

A long weekend in: Marrakesh

28 May - 2 June 2015

I'm hustled out of the car and immediately my senses are alive at the market trade taking place on the floor or the small square. Distracted by some little aubergines I almost crash into a passing cyclist. Better gather yourself Claire! We wind through tiny streets and through an equally tiny door and suddenly we are surrounded by plants, a pool and the sounds of birds. Its like something from a fairytale walking into a Riad; the hustle of the street could be 10 miles away! Welcome to Marrakesh!

We decided to stay at Riad Edward before Millie and before we knew about the British owner, whose patriotism extends to a rather large painting of the queen in reception. We were welcomed with traditional Moroccan Mint Tea (something I've been waiting to try for a long time) with freshly squeezed orange juice and delicate biscuits. And not a minute too soon after a 2am alarm and a 6:25 flight from Gatwick.

Welcome tea, juice and cakes at Riad Edward
"You're room is nice and tucked away" we are told as we wind up the narrow staircase to the roof. And so it is; our room is secluded with a private outdoor seating area and no neighbours.

It's comfortably furnished with enough pillows for a Berber camp and a bath bathed in the light of the coloured glass of the window. "We got it Booking right!" we tell ourselves as we freshen up ready to explore the city!

Private seating area

The Medina


Marrakesh Medina or old city is made up of thousands of tiny winding streets that are sure to have even the most experienced navigators nervously scratching their head. Lucky for us, our Booking.com reservation got us a free travel guide with offline map from their app. This meant we could spend a little less time arguing and drawing attention to ourselves as lost tourists and more time to see the city knowing we could never really get too lost. There are also lots of signs to Jemaa El Fna square, and plenty of "helpful locals" ready to walk you almost anywhere for a few euros.

Once you take your focus off the map, the city is beautiful and the narrow streets lead to stunning mosques. Take it all in at a terrace in Jemaa El Fna over a cool drink or from the street with a 30p Orange juice. From the square you can see snake charmers, get henna or have your picture taken with a poor nappied monkey, none of which I'd recommend. Instead order a drink at the quiet Aqua bar and watch as the square stands still during prayer and the muezzin call sounds out in echoing waves, minaret by minaret across the city.

Taking in the atmosphere at Cafe Aqua, in Jemaa El Fna
After a long days travelling and walking (twice as far with all the wrong turns) we were certainly in need of a good meal. I'd booked us a table on the roof terrace at Le Foundouk, and after getting very lost on the way we arrived late and hungry.

"Je suis tre desole" (a phase I'd use much more than normal on this trip) I said as we arrived. We were shown upstairs and passed the menu and a traditional splash of rose water for our hands. The attentive service of the staff made us feel very special and we enjoyed our Briwatts and Tagine over a bottle of Moroccan red wine (not at all bad) and the sound of the starlings.

The following day we had booked a trip into the Atlas Mountains to Kasbah Du Toubkal. Again, we booked this before we spotted Daniel Craig and Mark Strong had enjoyed a bromantic getaway there some months before.

Kasbah Du Toubkal


After shockingly oversleeping I was pleased I booked the private tour as this gave us the time we needed to eat some breakfast before the day began. Our driver Ysef was patient and once on our way informative about the mountains and what we could expect. We drove out of the city toward the snow capped hills, spotting fruit trees, perilous bridges and properties owned by Richard Branson.

At the village in Ansi we stopped for a quick tour of the market. No hidden agenda to make a sale from the tourists, just a slice of real Moroccan life, goat heads and all. At Imlil we joined the Kasbah staff for a short walk up the hillside to the serene Kasbah compound which is blessed with panoramic views of the valley, waterfalls and Mount Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa. As we bathed in the view we were served a lunch of Moroccan salad, lamb and fig Tagine, cous cous with chicken and vegetables and fresh watermelon. The Tagine was out of this world! Fall off the bone lamb with onions, figs and tomato. Satisfied and with no other plan but to enjoy the view, we camped out Berber style on the terrace to take in the view and calm.

The view from Kasbah Du Toubkal
By the end of such a long day, we wanted to stay close to the Riad for dinner. We'd noticed I Limoni as we came home the previous evening and after seeing it's reviews on TripAdvisor decided to give it ago. We only wanted a small meal after all the Tagine at the Kasbah; or so we thought.

Seated among the lemon trees and listening to a mix of chill out, a small meal turned into 3 courses. I Limoni offers a mixture of Moroccan and Italian dishes, so we were spoiled for choice! We were greeted by a run down of the specials and served fried vegetables and bread which we enjoyed with lashings of olive oil and balamic vinegar. We shouldn't have ordered starters, but it was too late, and now I was faced with a huge pastilla. Pastilla is a sweet or savoury dish, wrapped in filo pastry. Mine was chicken, with a delicate sweetness to it, and dusted with cinnamon. Sounds weird but tastes delicious. I was only sorry I couldn't eat it all! I followed this with lemon and Rosemary pasta which was the simple but tasty dish I needed. Mark had gnocchi Gorgonzola which he enjoyed. After nearly the whole bottle of Cuvee President, the dessert menu tempted us back with tiramisu and we were glad we decided to share. It was massive! We were invited to finish our drinks on the terrace and left feeling very full but very happy we'd chosen to come.

The following night be returned to I Limoni for lamb Tagine and chocolate and pear tart! Equally delicious and we even got a lemoncello to finish it off with!

Sightseeing in Marrakesh


We'd reserved our last day in Marrakesh for some much needed sunbathing and book reading on the roof, so the Sunday was all about sights!

Marrakesh is a city you can explore in a weekend, but when pushed for time we think a day is just about enough to tick the important boxes depending on how much you really want to see. I find being flexible with what you can and can't leave without seeing is important to exploring any new place and makes the whole experience more enjoyable.

I'd wanted to ride a camel since I came home from Egypt without having had so much as an opportunity to ride one, so with a little French interpretation, I booked us a camel each around the Palmerie. We were dressed up in the semi traditional looking garb and walked about for an hour quite happily with our guide/photographer happily chatting and snapping away.

Camel riding in the Palmerie
Back in the medina, we hotfooted it over to the tanneries. This corner of the city is where the leather is prepared and, although not particularly enamoured with the idea of a tour, we did pop out heard around the corner for a quick peek.

We pit stop for chicken sandwiches (amazing) and an orange juice on our way to the souks at Terasse La Medersa. Around the corner the souks entrance beckons us in. As we are on a tight schedule, we follow the main avenue of the mess of alleys and corners from one end to the other, glancing at trinkets, tea pots and slippers.

Marrakesh souks
The souks are a maze of colours and explorers bargaining for a keepsake or two. I'm not quite sure if there's anything I want to part with my money for, but as we negotiate over a leather belt for Mark, a backpack which I know will age well catches my eye. Sadly it's too much than I'm willing to spend, but half the price later I'm a happy lady with a leather backpack for the equivalent of £14.60! We pick up a few novelties for our friends before emerging the other end of the souk happy and about ready for another orange juice.

Our next stop is the Saadian Tombs. Inside this tiny sight we find beautiful mosaics and a lush garden and after a peaceful walk around its time to catch the caleche to our final stop of the day, the Majorelle Gardens.

Saadian Tombs

Saved by French fashionista Yves Saint Lauren, Majorelle Gardens seems to be some kind of fashion Mecca, and it is here outside of the medina walls where we find flowing dresses among the cacti! The gardens are lovely and the blue as deep and walk as you've come to expect, but for the price this was certainly more new than old Marrakesh!

There were other sights I would have liked to see, for example the Mamounia, but I think after my slight disappointment with the Majorelle, I'd be happier with a more time in my magical Riad anyway!

On our final day we bathe under the sun and indulge is breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Riad, all topped off with a massage that boarders on being a little naughty!

Sunset views of Koutombia Mosque from Riad Edward

It's been a strange sort of a trip in some ways, as I forget myself, am constantly late and feel like I'm making mistakes I really should have sorted by now. There are parts of the city that remind me of Vietnam and Cambodia, by being completely open to tourists but still maintain a distance from them. Eventually as with every trip though, it's time to go and as we jet off I feel relaxed and ready for my next adventure!