Claire's Top 10: Rome

Having been drawn back to the ancient streets of the eternal city 3 times over the past few years, I've had plenty of time to explore the big attractions and the lesser known corners of Rome.

Whilst there's always something new and beautiful behind every corner, there are some places that draw me back time and time again!

Here are my top ten Rome experiences! 

1. The Colosseum and Palatine Hill

If there's one thing you see in Rome, make sure it's the Colosseum. Yes it's filled with tourists, but it's well worth the crowds. For a more relaxed experience, visit in the early evening and enjoy the view from one of the nearby bars at sunset. Palatine hill is often forgotten but offers a quiet setting and beautiful views of the city.

2. St Peters and the Vatican

Even if you aren't religious there's something about being in St Peters Square for Sunday mass. Enjoy listening the the Popes speech then visit the basilica, not forgetting the catacombs and the Vatican Museums.

3. Campo de' Fiori 

Mingle with the Iocals at this bustling market which runs daily. Fresh fruit, produce and flowers will fill your senses and it's great fun to buy bruschetta mix and see which country the vendor thinks you are from (I got Spanish, and was so flattered!) 

4. Villa Borghese 

Sunny afternoons are best spent inVilla Borghese away from the crowds. There are plenty of shady spots around and undoubtedly a man strumming a guitar. Grab a bottle of wine and some fresh bread and ham and make a picnic of it!

5. Mouth of truth

Re-live the classic Roman Holiday scene with a trip to the Mouth of Truth. There's usually a queue but it moves quickly, is free to visit and is the perfect place to start a walk along the river. 

6. Piazza della Rontula

This is my favourite square in Rome, and is watched over by the historic Pantheon. Horse drawn cartridges combine with suited business men and women in stilettos (on those cobbles!) giving this small square a unique atmosphere. Most tourists only pass through on their way to the Pantheon or Piazza Navona. Sit back, relax and watch the world go by. 

7. Trastrevere

The city's up and coming neighbourhood is where all the locals hangout. Nip over for dinner and drinks at one of the amazing wine bars and enjoy a street performance in the square. 

8. Trevi Fountain 

Dreams of Rome are made as you round the corner and are quite frankly confronted by the awesome and imposing Trevi Fountain, the city's most dramatic and powerful fountain. Toss a few coins and make a wish! 

9. The Tiber

The tree lined paths of the Tiber are great for a morning stroll and the bridges afford amazing views of St Peters basilica especially from the Ponte Umberto not far from Piazza Navona on the east and Piazza Cavour on the west. 

10. Villa D'Este

Hop the train from Termini to Tivoli (30 mins) and pay a visit to Villa D'Este. This beautiful Renaissance villa features some impressive rooms and a stunning garden filled with fountains of all shapes and sizes.

What's your favourite things to do or see in Rome?

All roads lead to Rome

16 - 23 May

It was always a dream that we might end our travels in Italy, so to have been able to turn it into a reality was beyond our wildest expectations! Rome, Naples, Florence, Bologna and Milan are where we are headed over the next few weeks.

I am beyond excitement at starting our Italian tour with a whole week in Rome, one of my favourite places in the world.

We've been here twice before, the first time in 2010 when we got engaged, and the second in 2012 as a surprise for Marks birthday.

Roma, Roma, Roma!

This time we arrived late in the evening from Bali via Shanghai, and the sun was just setting as our Terravision transfer brought us into the city. The light was reflecting off the terracotta buildings illuminating the eternal city - it was good to be back!

After a little fuss trying to get our metro ticket at Termini (tip: have change) we were on our way to Silesia's. She was our air bnb host for the week and her place was a 10 min tram ride away. It was lovely to be staying in a home again, it was cosy and very welcome after months of hotels.

After a good nights sleep we were ready to get reacquainted with the city, after cappuccino and cornetti of course! My friend Chloe was also in Rome, so we arranged to meet her for dinner after a little shopping.

One of the best things about Rome is that the history is all around you, and you don't have to go far to see a stunning sight. Even one of the tram stations is built into an ancient wall! It's an easily walkable city in the right shoes, and you can keep hydrated by drinking from the water fountains on almost every street (perfectly safe and free!). On our first day we revisited the Colosseum, Spanish Steps, Villa Borghese, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, Pantheon and the Roman Forum, all stirring the emotions and reminding us why we love this city.

Clean and cold water, available everywhere!

Almost 4 years later it's wonderful to be able to find the spot Mark proposed, shed a tear and feel happy to find a memory.

The wine and conversation flowed when we met Chloe at sunset by the Colosseum, and before we knew it we'd talked our way through dinner to midnight and had to get a taxi home!

The following day was a Sunday and we'd planned to go to the Vatican and hear the Pope. Mark and I had accidentally seen this once before, but arriving at the Vatican it became clear this Pope is so much more popular that the last. St Peters Square was at bursting point! It was nice to be part of a large gathering, and even though no one in our group were practising Catholics, we could appreciate why people come, and got a good vibe!

The Pope, second window in on the right!

After, we strolled along the Tiber to the Mouth Of Truth (free) and on to Capitoline Museum for a view of the Roman Forum where we left Chloe. That night we ate traditional Roman pasta with cheese and pepper and washed it all down with a bottle of red. It's lovely to be drinking wine again after months of lager!

What's best though, is already being familiar with a place after months of 'new'. We knew enough about Rome to get about without a map, and even when we got lost we could find our way when we eventually stumbled upon a sight, obelisk or familiar road. This all added to the homely feeling we were getting which made the whole week not even feel too much like we were away from home. Add in dinner with friends and a boozy picnic and it could have been a regular Saturday!

Something beautiful in every direction!

Running in Rome

After seeing friends Dave and Sarah for a quick espresso and catch up, we were on the hunt for running kit. It had been 3 months since I last ran and I was sure all this pasta and wine would make it catch up with me at a faster rate than usual. 

The next day we tested our kit out at a park near Tor Pignattara. It's frequented by runners and must be used for regular races from the looks of the notice board. For the 10k the best time was around 36 mins; not bad considering most of the runners were 50+. 

We managed to squeeze 2 runs and a lot of pulled muscles into our week, and it was nice to know that even in Italy people on the street look at runners like we are crazy people!

Villa d'Este

On Wednesday, we hopped on the train to Villa d'Este (€11), a place I've been dying to see since it popped up on my Pinterest feed. Its a 30 min/€2.80 train from Tiburtina and absolutely worth it if you have time.

The largest fountain in Villa d'Este

Villa d'Este is a stunning Italian villa and garden of water fountains which just take your breath away. The largest jetted water up 20 meters. It's the perfect place to sample small town Italy close to the big city; just stroll away the afternoon in the beautiful grounds and enjoy dinner in the charming hillside town.

I love fountains so it was the perfect way for me spend an afternoon in Italy. The views over the rest of Lazio were also beautiful.

A little Eat Pray Love in Rome

On our last day in Rome, we revisit the Vatican (much quieter today) and see the grottoes which house the past popes and the supposed resting place of St. Peter. We missed this before; as the entrance isn't clear. FYI it's behind the statue that stands behind you to the right when at the top of St. Peter's chamber - and that description should make sense when you are there!

After we had lunch in Piazza Cavour before stumbling across these filming locations from the film of the book Eat Pray Love!

Liz's house in Eat Pray Love

What's your word?

The first is Liz's house in Rome; it's at the end of Via dei Pianellari. The second is the restaurant where they talk about each others word; it's called Santa Lucia on Via do Santa Maria dell' Amina. Both are very close to Piazza Navona!

By the end of the week we were sad to be leaving this little piece of home, but excited about the coming week in Naples! Rome has always been a special place for us, and this time was no different.

A change in the wind

There's been a change in plans!

I'm learning new things about myself every day on this trip, and whilst we were in Vietnam, where we thought we were going to build a new life, we realised something.

Ever since leaving Tan An and our not-what-we-expected jobs we busily applied for other teaching positions in Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia. We had two offers on the table to work in Thailand, and the Indonesian role was progressing well but we both had this strange lingering feeling that none of them were what we wanted anymore. It wasn't so much the work; we'd enjoyed the kids and subject matter of teaching English. It was more the idea of contracts, targets and results. We were having too much fun travelling by now and didn't quite want to give it all up for the lifestyle we will most likely have for the rest of our lives in the UK.

So, whilst going through these application processes, I explored other options that could help us extend our travels. What I found was WorkAway. Its a website for people looking for free help (hosts) and people looking for food and lodging as payment for their work. It was perfect! We could help renovate a Tuscan villa, or garden in the south of France.

In Hanoi we had our first responses, and whilst our dates didn't match with the need of many hosts, one was perfect. A few emails later we were happily accepting an offer to work in northern Italy for 6 weeks as au pairs for a 6 year old boy and a 10 year old girl. I was ecstatic, not only would we have the time to travel through Italy after our stay in Bali, but we would also get to live there which has been a dream of mine for years that I never thought I'd see realised. And what a better way to do it than with a charming and already friendly and helpful family!

There is no doubt in my mind that we have made the right decision, and the longer I am in Asia the more I can see is as the perfect holiday and sightseeing destination, but not somewhere I can see myself living. 'Its not you, its me'.

So, with that is mind, here is the travel plan for the next few months:

26 April: Leave the Thai islands for the mainland
27 April: Train to Malaysia
28 April: Fly to Bali
15 May: Fly to Rome via 23hour stop in Shanghai, China.
23 May: Train to Naples
30 May: Train to Florence
3 June: Train to Bologna
5 June: Train to Milan
10 June: Move in with family
7 August: Fly back to the UK for our next adventure!

Chao

Despite the fact I'm moving to Vietnam in a little over a months time, tonight I am taking my first lesson in Italian.

"Italian?!" I hear you cry.

Yes, dear reader.

You see, whilst I will have little use for Italian in Vietnam, (though I have been assured there is at least one Italian restaurant in the Mekong Delta) learning Italian is something I have wanted to do ever since I first visited Rome and began my love affair with the country in 2010. And believe it or not, I think now is actually the BEST time for me to start. Here's why:

1. I am about to start a new life an a teacher of English as a foreign language. I have almost no knowledge of Italian beyond the menu in Pizza Express and the phrase "bel far niente" which I learnt reading Eat Pray Love. With this in mind, I think it will be a great experience to be in the shoes of the student right before I become the teacher, refreshing my memory of the complex world of language and learning.

2. My husband and I would love to be able to end our time travelling by spending as long as we can in Italy. When we visited a Tuscan vineyard for a few days in 2012 we managed to squeeze seeing Sienna, San Gimignano and Pisa into one day en route to the airport in our hire car. It was one crazy day, but it gave us a taste of the Italian countryside, and left us hungry for more. With our TEFL qualification and some experience we might even be able to find work as teachers! I bet the Italian language classes will be useful then.

3. Why not? I am in the full swing of operation-pack-up and I will very soon run out of things to do. I've already worked out how many cups of tea I need to drink to get through this pack! Having something new and fun to learn will help me relax. I don't want to be waiting and planning things my entire life and this is one thing I can do now.

So there it is. I'm a British girl, moving to Vietnam, starting to learn Italian. (I am also learning Vietnamese too; Chào actually means hello in Vietnamese; Ciao is the Italian.)

Now, watch this amazing clip from the IT Crowd, which I think pretty accurately shows what I'll be like trying to use my Italian skills!